Left early today - around 8:15 - as it would be nice to get home at a decent hour. Rode I-10 East for about 250 miles before turning South just East of Tallahassee. Temps and humidity reminded us that we were getting close to the Tampa area as we headed South. Another 250 miles to home.
Ticked off another time zone in Florida. That makes 10 for those of you counting. More if we count the back and forth through the border of BC and YT in Canada as we crossed borders and time zones several times in each direction.
Stopped in Perry, FL briefly for a BBQ lunch at Goodman's Real Pit BBQ - a place most people wouldn't even enter, but the takeout window was quite active. Couldn't believe the BBQ or the prices - wish we had a place like this near home. BBQ Beef sandwich, coleslaw, tater salad, and a Lemonade all for only $5.99 - tax included!!!
Place could use some renovations, but then again, it's look is what gives it its local character. Seemed to be one popular place with the local and state police too.
I can't believe we covered almost 14,000 miles and no tickets, stops, etc. Highly unlikely, except for the Canadian border incident, of course.
Skies were cooperative all morning, but the afternoon held other weather conditions for us. Another reminder we're in Florida in the Summer. Boomers and grey clouds all around. After leaving Perry, we could see a wall of water just ahead. A few raindrops on the windscreen and helmet visor, temps quickly dropped and winds picked up. Pulled over and donned rain gear and headed into the belly of the beast. Only lasted a mile or 2, but wet enough to warrant the rain gear. The sun was out soon after and bought back the heat and humidity.
No too long down the road was another gas stop waiting for us. So, rain gear comes off and gets packed again - it's totally dry, so no problem. and off South again. Kind of uncomfortable riding in 96F and Florida humid.
Ed and I departed at the traffic light at Little Road in Port Richey with a fist bump and a safe home wish. Arrived home around 6:15PM with a dozen roses for the love of my life waiting for me with open arms. It felt great to see her beaming smile and wrap my arms around her with a well deserved greeting. Ahhh........... to be home. As Dorothy said, "there's no place like home". How right she was!
The tally for the trip is:
41 total days on the road, 39 with Ed
13,907 total miles
13,408 miles from Key West, FL
12, 910 miles from home
18 States - including Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Tennessee, Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan, South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Alaska, California, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama.
3 Canadian Provinces and Territories - Alberta, British Columbia and Yukon Territory
5 Oil changes
3 5,000 mile services on Big Red
3 Breakdowns - Cartersville, Tennessee - Wheel Bearings, Great Falls, Montana - Stator, Fairbanks, Alaska - Voltage Regulator
3 Family visits - Tennessee, Alaska, and Texas
4 Continental Divide Crossings
4 Border Crossings and 2 Customs and Border Patrol Checkpoints
Got to touch the Arctic Circle!!!
Priceless scenery from Florida to Alaska and back. Every state and province has so much to offer that you've got to travel the many roads and highways through this great land to appreciate it. Many interesting conversations and interactions with other travelers, bikers and non-bikers, some from the Netherlands, England, and from all over the US and Canada. Almost an equal number of motorcycles headed to Alaska as RV's and cars. The best and worst riding conditions anyone can ever imagine, and on a motorcycle it's quite the experience. We rode through sunshine, rain, snow, cold, hot, humid, dry, wet, mud, gravel, dirt, fresh oil drenched dirt and gravel, calcium chloride (a slushy dirt/mud not even fit for a car), pilot cars, mountains, valleys, deserts, suicide birds, cities, towns, and some places you could never imagine exist.
We saw black bear, moose, fox or mountain lion (different of opinion), elk, deer, long horn sheep, cows, bulls, reindeer, buffalo, chicken playing squirrels, wild turkey and eagles.
Crystal clear aqua colored lakes and rivers - mostly in Canada and Alaska.
The Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. And Mexico too as we passed through El Paso Texas. I wasn't aware of how close the border is to the Interstate. Not far at all - a few hundred yards or less at some points.
Friday, July 10, 2015
Destination Mobile - Day 40
Nothing spectacular to report as today was a routine ride and another day toward home. Now about 1,000 miles from the final destination and 500 miles from Mobile.
Rode through Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama today. Covered over 500 miles, mostly over and along water. The Louisiana Bayou, Mississippi River, and swamplands of the South.
Temps were warm but bearable and we arrived in Daphne, AL around 6PM and found a comfortable motel for the last night on the road.
Had a great dinner and got to finally use a pool and hot tub. Both felt just great. Nice way to end a day.
Tomorrow - Homeward bound!
Rode through Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama today. Covered over 500 miles, mostly over and along water. The Louisiana Bayou, Mississippi River, and swamplands of the South.
Temps were warm but bearable and we arrived in Daphne, AL around 6PM and found a comfortable motel for the last night on the road.
Had a great dinner and got to finally use a pool and hot tub. Both felt just great. Nice way to end a day.
Tomorrow - Homeward bound!
Tuesday, July 7, 2015
Road to Houston - Day 39
Headed for a short 200 mile ride to visit family in Houston, Texas. Ed is off to visit his brother and I'm off to visit my Aunt Joanna. A little respite from the seat of the motorcycles and some quality time with family.
I arrived around 1:30 and was greeted by Aunt Jo and her dog YoYoMa.
It was good to see them both and get out of the riding clothes and get into some comfortable clothes. Dinner at a real Texas BBQ and then to bed after talking a while. What a nice quiet night! This place is quieter than my own neighborhood in Florida. I could easily get used to this, but now I'm 200 miles closer to home. Should be just 2 long days of riding and back home! Can't wait!
Handlebars will once again be pointed East toward Florida and with any luck, 2 long days of riding Wednesday and Thursday and this great and most excellent adventure will wrap up.
Looking forward to being home!
I arrived around 1:30 and was greeted by Aunt Jo and her dog YoYoMa.
It was good to see them both and get out of the riding clothes and get into some comfortable clothes. Dinner at a real Texas BBQ and then to bed after talking a while. What a nice quiet night! This place is quieter than my own neighborhood in Florida. I could easily get used to this, but now I'm 200 miles closer to home. Should be just 2 long days of riding and back home! Can't wait!
Handlebars will once again be pointed East toward Florida and with any luck, 2 long days of riding Wednesday and Thursday and this great and most excellent adventure will wrap up.
Looking forward to being home!
Sunday, July 5, 2015
Desert, Mesas, Mountains, River Walk, Little Red, Adam - Day 38
Another boring day of riding. Over 450 miles to cover and all it takes is pointing the handlebars East, set the cruise for 80 - got to love the 80mph speed limit here, stop for gas, stop for water, repeat.
Riding was through the desert and mountains once again, but this time, the weather remained reasonably comfortable - I saw a high of 91 when we stopped for lunch around 2:30. Otherwise it was a cool riding day. Many of the mountains we rode through had their sides exposed and you could see the layers of rock and dirt that formed them over millions of years. Truly a sight to see.
We passed many Mesas and Prairies, Plateaus and Valleys, even saw some cattle grazing in the desert. Along the way there were some unlucky animal carcasses on the side of the road where the animal lost and the car may have won.
At the end of the day we stayed in San Antonio and after cleaning up took a ride downtown to see the River Walk. Parked the bikes and walked around a bit, then headed back to ward the hotel for dinner.
Settled on a place called the Little Red Barn Steakhouse and had a perfectly cooked and tasting Rib Eye Steak. Delish!
Met a Vietnam Vet named Adam and his Family outside the restaurant and offered to take a photo of the whole family and we chatted a bit. Turns out that the guy owns a leather shop selling motorcycle clothes and accessories I San Antonio.
After chatting for a few minutes we departed and headed a few miles up the road to the hotel. And here we are once again. I know. Pics, where are the pics. I should have a day of down time as I visit my Aunt Joanna in Houston tomorrow, so keep your fingers crossed and wish me luck........
Logged over 450 miles today.
Riding was through the desert and mountains once again, but this time, the weather remained reasonably comfortable - I saw a high of 91 when we stopped for lunch around 2:30. Otherwise it was a cool riding day. Many of the mountains we rode through had their sides exposed and you could see the layers of rock and dirt that formed them over millions of years. Truly a sight to see.
We passed many Mesas and Prairies, Plateaus and Valleys, even saw some cattle grazing in the desert. Along the way there were some unlucky animal carcasses on the side of the road where the animal lost and the car may have won.
At the end of the day we stayed in San Antonio and after cleaning up took a ride downtown to see the River Walk. Parked the bikes and walked around a bit, then headed back to ward the hotel for dinner.
Settled on a place called the Little Red Barn Steakhouse and had a perfectly cooked and tasting Rib Eye Steak. Delish!
Met a Vietnam Vet named Adam and his Family outside the restaurant and offered to take a photo of the whole family and we chatted a bit. Turns out that the guy owns a leather shop selling motorcycle clothes and accessories I San Antonio.
After chatting for a few minutes we departed and headed a few miles up the road to the hotel. And here we are once again. I know. Pics, where are the pics. I should have a day of down time as I visit my Aunt Joanna in Houston tomorrow, so keep your fingers crossed and wish me luck........
Logged over 450 miles today.
Big Red at the MD, Boring Ride Until,,,,,, El Capitan - Day 37
The day started with an 8:00AM visit to the Tucson Harley Davidson service department for Big Red's 5,000 mile service. Boy, these come up quickly! All is well and on my way before noon.
Headed down I-10 again today and the thing to do is point the handlebars East, set the cruise control and sit. It began to rain when I left the dealership, The temp was around 90F, so not so bad compared to he previous few days, or so I thought. The raindrops were scarce, but felt cool against my clothes. The sky was overcast, but that wasn't probably going to last. Just hoping it's not another hail storm like they got the day before. Hal balls hurt at 75mph. So do raindrops!
Ed wanted to get moving so he headed East on his own around 10AM. I'll catch up with him in Van Horn, Texas later today.
The ride started out ok with the cloud cover providing a little relief form the scorching sun. Riding through the desert is interesting. Nothing for tens or hundreds of miles, then sometimes the weirdest things appear. One is a sign for a Picnic Area. Yeah, that's right. In the middle of nowhere there are 2 picnic tables. I've never seen anyone there. Not surprising in the 100+F heat. But they do have cover - that may entice someone to stop sometime?
Mountains constantly appear in the distance and before you know it, you're right in the middle of them. It was interesting to see another group of mountain made of randomly placed rounded boulders again, just like we saw in California.
The sun began to beat down and I came upon a welcomed rest stop where I got a cold drink and wet down the headgear, gloves and neck gear. Cooool ride for at least a 1/2 hour after that.
Crossed from Arizona into New Mexico and while riding through the mountains, the winds were fierce all day. Black and gray clouds appear on the horizon in front of me and as I get closer I can see lightning in the distance. The winds pick up, the temp drops at least 15-20 degrees and you can smell the ozone in the air. Something big is about to happen. As I approach, the raindrops start to fall and as I move forward at 80mph, the skies suddenly part as if the hand of God separated the sky and I could see a clearing in front of me with black and grey clouds to both sides.
The desert gives you a panoramic view of everything between you and the horizon, so you can see storm systems al around you and luckily have some warning about what may be in your path soon. Not that you can do anything about it, but you know what you're about to be in the middle of.
This went on for hours and hundreds of miles. Rain,, sun, heat, winds, cool, rain........repeat.
While riding through Texas near El Paso, you can actually see the Mexican border fence just a few hundred yards, if that, from the Interstate. I was tempted to cross and log a third country on this trip, but it was getting late and it would have to wait until next time. I couldn't even imagine the border wait coming into the US on the 4th of July. Besides, I'd much rather spend the 4th of July in the US than in Mexico or anywhere else.
Went through another Customs Checkpoint about 40 miles West of Van Horn and was just asked if I was a US citizen this time and given the wave through.
Got to Van Horn around 8:30PM - what? The clock on Big Red says 6:30, but a quick check of the iPhone confirmed that we had crossed 2 time zones while travelling from Tucson through New Mexico and Texas. Met up with Ed at the hotel. He was all cooled down ad relaxed. I was all hot sweaty and beaten up by the elements. Nothing a quick cool shower can't cure. After a few minutes, changes into fresh clothes and on to the next order of business.
Since, as I keep telling Ed, we're not in Kansas anymore, it's time to find some dinner before they roll the sidewalks up in this town. Van Horn is a small town with one main street - Main Street. Main street goes for about a mile and everything the town has to offer is on it. Ed picked out the Cattleman Steakhouse on - what else - Main Street We get there and not a car on the lot. I sensed something wrong right away. 4th of July? Closed for good? That's a mystery that will stay in Van Horn. Good thing I had a Plan B. There is this old Spanish architecture hotel in town called the El Capitan. I remembered reading that it also had the top rated restaurant in town (out of what - 2?). So, we went off. Now where could it be. I know, it must be on Main Street, so I ride to the end of Main and hat do you know? El Capitan Hotel. Built in the 1930's this place is a real sight to see. It looks great and has a restaurant still open too!
Had a delicious Wild Salmon dinner and called it a night.
Four states and 3 time zones in 2 days. California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Not bad.
Headed down I-10 again today and the thing to do is point the handlebars East, set the cruise control and sit. It began to rain when I left the dealership, The temp was around 90F, so not so bad compared to he previous few days, or so I thought. The raindrops were scarce, but felt cool against my clothes. The sky was overcast, but that wasn't probably going to last. Just hoping it's not another hail storm like they got the day before. Hal balls hurt at 75mph. So do raindrops!
Ed wanted to get moving so he headed East on his own around 10AM. I'll catch up with him in Van Horn, Texas later today.
The ride started out ok with the cloud cover providing a little relief form the scorching sun. Riding through the desert is interesting. Nothing for tens or hundreds of miles, then sometimes the weirdest things appear. One is a sign for a Picnic Area. Yeah, that's right. In the middle of nowhere there are 2 picnic tables. I've never seen anyone there. Not surprising in the 100+F heat. But they do have cover - that may entice someone to stop sometime?
Mountains constantly appear in the distance and before you know it, you're right in the middle of them. It was interesting to see another group of mountain made of randomly placed rounded boulders again, just like we saw in California.
The sun began to beat down and I came upon a welcomed rest stop where I got a cold drink and wet down the headgear, gloves and neck gear. Cooool ride for at least a 1/2 hour after that.
Crossed from Arizona into New Mexico and while riding through the mountains, the winds were fierce all day. Black and gray clouds appear on the horizon in front of me and as I get closer I can see lightning in the distance. The winds pick up, the temp drops at least 15-20 degrees and you can smell the ozone in the air. Something big is about to happen. As I approach, the raindrops start to fall and as I move forward at 80mph, the skies suddenly part as if the hand of God separated the sky and I could see a clearing in front of me with black and grey clouds to both sides.
The desert gives you a panoramic view of everything between you and the horizon, so you can see storm systems al around you and luckily have some warning about what may be in your path soon. Not that you can do anything about it, but you know what you're about to be in the middle of.
This went on for hours and hundreds of miles. Rain,, sun, heat, winds, cool, rain........repeat.
While riding through Texas near El Paso, you can actually see the Mexican border fence just a few hundred yards, if that, from the Interstate. I was tempted to cross and log a third country on this trip, but it was getting late and it would have to wait until next time. I couldn't even imagine the border wait coming into the US on the 4th of July. Besides, I'd much rather spend the 4th of July in the US than in Mexico or anywhere else.
Went through another Customs Checkpoint about 40 miles West of Van Horn and was just asked if I was a US citizen this time and given the wave through.
Got to Van Horn around 8:30PM - what? The clock on Big Red says 6:30, but a quick check of the iPhone confirmed that we had crossed 2 time zones while travelling from Tucson through New Mexico and Texas. Met up with Ed at the hotel. He was all cooled down ad relaxed. I was all hot sweaty and beaten up by the elements. Nothing a quick cool shower can't cure. After a few minutes, changes into fresh clothes and on to the next order of business.
Since, as I keep telling Ed, we're not in Kansas anymore, it's time to find some dinner before they roll the sidewalks up in this town. Van Horn is a small town with one main street - Main Street. Main street goes for about a mile and everything the town has to offer is on it. Ed picked out the Cattleman Steakhouse on - what else - Main Street We get there and not a car on the lot. I sensed something wrong right away. 4th of July? Closed for good? That's a mystery that will stay in Van Horn. Good thing I had a Plan B. There is this old Spanish architecture hotel in town called the El Capitan. I remembered reading that it also had the top rated restaurant in town (out of what - 2?). So, we went off. Now where could it be. I know, it must be on Main Street, so I ride to the end of Main and hat do you know? El Capitan Hotel. Built in the 1930's this place is a real sight to see. It looks great and has a restaurant still open too!
Had a delicious Wild Salmon dinner and called it a night.
Four states and 3 time zones in 2 days. California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Not bad.
Friday, July 3, 2015
Bye Bye San Diego, Cool Mountains, Highs, Lows, Biker Bakeoff, Tucson - Day 36
Another fine breakfast at the Old Town House and back to load up and head out. Good-byes to Kasey and Jayda. We had a great time and Kasey was a great host. She took us to see all the major sights in San Diego the 2 days we spent there. We all slept well after 2 active days out in the sun. Jayda was exhausted. I'll miss her too. We hated to see San Diego fade in our rearview mirrors. I know why my daughter loves it here. Who wouldn't! Thank you to my beautiful daughter - I miss you already!
We headed out under cloudy skies and a comfortable riding temperature of 70F. This lasted about an hour as we made our way East through the mountains that Rte 8 took us through . At one point our elevation reached over 4400 ft and the mountains were made of what looked like round boulders piled on top of each other as if put there by methodically someone. It was a sight to see. I've never seen anything like it before and it was just as strange as the formations in the Badlands of South Dakota. Pretty cool!
Our comfortable ride would soon change, and quickly. After reaching a summit of 4400 ft. the mountain road winded through the rock formations downhill for miles, twisting and turning as it hugged the contours of the earth. Our elevation dropped to 55 ft below sea level and the temps rose to 110 F in no time. What a difference - you could actually feel r rise as you descended and knew it wasn't going to be a comfortable rest of the day. So, we went into our routine of stopping every hour or so, wetting everything down, getting a drink of cold water out of vending machines at rest stops or at gas stations and pushing on. Tucson was getting closer with every mile. Before we knew it, we were there and the temp was a comfortable 105 F to boot!!!
More wind turbines among the hills and a few parabolic reflective solar farms used to focus the sun's rays on a thin pipe suspended at the focal point to generate steam to run steam turbines and ultimately generate electricity.
It's amazing as you ride through the stove piped cacti and visions of Yosemite Sam. Wiley Coyote, and Road runner run through your head. Unfortunately we didn't see any of them. Guess it was too hot for them too. The highway lined lanes were almost met at several points by the US-Mexican Border fence less than a quarter mile away. You could see it for miles as we rode through the desert. We even went through a Customs and Border Patrol checkpoint in the middle of nowhere. A friendly wave and we went through. After riding through 110 F for a few hours I guess we didn't look like a threat.
Miles of barren desert and then miles of crops. How strange to see these two dichotomies coexisting in the same arid setting. Sometimes surreal.
Once at the hotel, cool showers, a quick change, and off to dinner. You don't realize how much exposure to the heat can give you an appetite until you sit and get ready to order. We went to a local place recommended by the hotel clerk a and it was outstanding and reasonable too. Can't beat that combo!
Time to blog and get some rest. Off to the Tucson Harley dealer in the Am for another 5000 mile service - one before I left, one in Soldata, AK (Kenai Peninsula) and now one in Arizona.
I'll give a tally soon and I'm quite amazed of the land we covered and the time we've been on the road. All good, even when it was bad, it was good. Thanks Kathy - I love you!
Stay Tuned................
We headed out under cloudy skies and a comfortable riding temperature of 70F. This lasted about an hour as we made our way East through the mountains that Rte 8 took us through . At one point our elevation reached over 4400 ft and the mountains were made of what looked like round boulders piled on top of each other as if put there by methodically someone. It was a sight to see. I've never seen anything like it before and it was just as strange as the formations in the Badlands of South Dakota. Pretty cool!
Our comfortable ride would soon change, and quickly. After reaching a summit of 4400 ft. the mountain road winded through the rock formations downhill for miles, twisting and turning as it hugged the contours of the earth. Our elevation dropped to 55 ft below sea level and the temps rose to 110 F in no time. What a difference - you could actually feel r rise as you descended and knew it wasn't going to be a comfortable rest of the day. So, we went into our routine of stopping every hour or so, wetting everything down, getting a drink of cold water out of vending machines at rest stops or at gas stations and pushing on. Tucson was getting closer with every mile. Before we knew it, we were there and the temp was a comfortable 105 F to boot!!!
More wind turbines among the hills and a few parabolic reflective solar farms used to focus the sun's rays on a thin pipe suspended at the focal point to generate steam to run steam turbines and ultimately generate electricity.
It's amazing as you ride through the stove piped cacti and visions of Yosemite Sam. Wiley Coyote, and Road runner run through your head. Unfortunately we didn't see any of them. Guess it was too hot for them too. The highway lined lanes were almost met at several points by the US-Mexican Border fence less than a quarter mile away. You could see it for miles as we rode through the desert. We even went through a Customs and Border Patrol checkpoint in the middle of nowhere. A friendly wave and we went through. After riding through 110 F for a few hours I guess we didn't look like a threat.
Miles of barren desert and then miles of crops. How strange to see these two dichotomies coexisting in the same arid setting. Sometimes surreal.
Once at the hotel, cool showers, a quick change, and off to dinner. You don't realize how much exposure to the heat can give you an appetite until you sit and get ready to order. We went to a local place recommended by the hotel clerk a and it was outstanding and reasonable too. Can't beat that combo!
Time to blog and get some rest. Off to the Tucson Harley dealer in the Am for another 5000 mile service - one before I left, one in Soldata, AK (Kenai Peninsula) and now one in Arizona.
I'll give a tally soon and I'm quite amazed of the land we covered and the time we've been on the road. All good, even when it was bad, it was good. Thanks Kathy - I love you!
Stay Tuned................
Thursday, July 2, 2015
La Jolla, Mt. Soledad, Mission Beach, Old Town, HD, and Back - Day 35
Started the day off with egg sandwiches and coffee and hit the road for La Jolla - a few miles away. Got to walk among the cliffs and see both Sea Lions and Seals up close and swimming in the Pacific. Nice views along the coast.
Next stop - Mt. Soledad. Mt. Soledad is the highest point in San Diego and one of the priciest places to live as the homes on the West side of the mountainside have beautiful ocean and beach views. Once at the park at the top of the mountain, there stood a white brick cross and the American flag surrounded by armed services memorial walls. The walls contained black marble panels with photos of servicemen and women with descriptions if their service to our country. It was interesting and touching. Some group wants to have the cross removed, but there's been a court injunction to stop the removal and there are efforts underway to purchase the property containing the cross and memorial as a non-profit to protect it. I hope they succeed as this is a sacred place that can be seen from miles around.
After Mt. Soledad, we headed to the Mission Beach Boardwalk for a quick bite and walk along the boardwalk. This place was packed. The beach and boardwalk were filled with people, bicycles, skateboards and roller-bladers. Nice place.
After the boardwalk we took a ride to Old Town. Kind of like Old Bethpage State Park in NY with a 1800's theme. Plenty of shops and places to buy food, drinks, and souvenirs. They even had a candy shop that sold candies I hadn't seen since the 60's and 70's. It brought back many memories.
Stopped at the largest Harley Davidson Dealership before heading home. It was huge. Most inventory I've ever seen at a Harley dealer anywhere.
Tomorrow we're off to Tucson, AZ. Temps expected to reach 106. Wish us luck!
Next stop - Mt. Soledad. Mt. Soledad is the highest point in San Diego and one of the priciest places to live as the homes on the West side of the mountainside have beautiful ocean and beach views. Once at the park at the top of the mountain, there stood a white brick cross and the American flag surrounded by armed services memorial walls. The walls contained black marble panels with photos of servicemen and women with descriptions if their service to our country. It was interesting and touching. Some group wants to have the cross removed, but there's been a court injunction to stop the removal and there are efforts underway to purchase the property containing the cross and memorial as a non-profit to protect it. I hope they succeed as this is a sacred place that can be seen from miles around.
After Mt. Soledad, we headed to the Mission Beach Boardwalk for a quick bite and walk along the boardwalk. This place was packed. The beach and boardwalk were filled with people, bicycles, skateboards and roller-bladers. Nice place.
After the boardwalk we took a ride to Old Town. Kind of like Old Bethpage State Park in NY with a 1800's theme. Plenty of shops and places to buy food, drinks, and souvenirs. They even had a candy shop that sold candies I hadn't seen since the 60's and 70's. It brought back many memories.
Stopped at the largest Harley Davidson Dealership before heading home. It was huge. Most inventory I've ever seen at a Harley dealer anywhere.
Tomorrow we're off to Tucson, AZ. Temps expected to reach 106. Wish us luck!
Ocean Beach, Balboa Park, Hodads, Farmer's Market, Fireworks - day 34
Woke up in beautiful Ocean Beach, California. Went downtown to breakfast and headed to the beach for a short walk, Then off to Balboa Park, home of the world's largest outdoor pipe organ. They have free concerts every night! The park is enormous housing science buildings, an IMax theater, a Japanese tea garden, botanical gardens, a playhouse and a host of other buildings. The architecture is in the old Spanish style with ornate artwork built into the building facades.
We spent part of the afternoon walking around and admiring the enormity and beauty of the park, we headed to downtown OB for some Hodad's Burgers. A burger joint made famous by Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.
A walk through the farmer's market, then home.
The Sea World fireworks went off just after 9PM and we watched from the upstairs balcony. Nice treat after a day in OB.
Watched a movie and zonked out.
We spent part of the afternoon walking around and admiring the enormity and beauty of the park, we headed to downtown OB for some Hodad's Burgers. A burger joint made famous by Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.
A walk through the farmer's market, then home.
The Sea World fireworks went off just after 9PM and we watched from the upstairs balcony. Nice treat after a day in OB.
Watched a movie and zonked out.
The Long Hot Ride, LA - We Love It - Mariscos Linda, Red Snapper, Kasey- Day 33
When we got up and packed we knew it was going to be a hot one. The temp started out at 94F then rose throughout the day as we rode US 5 through California. The mountains and hillsides were burnt and brown due to the heat and lack of rain or irrigation. As we rode through the state the temps definitely increased - all the way up to 113F by mid afternoon.
As we frequently stopped at rest areas and gas stations to hydrate and wet out helmets, gloves and neck scarves - the only brief relief we had from the heat.
As we were going through LA in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic for about a 1/2 hour, Ed's bike overheated. His instruments lit up like a Christmas Tree, so we pulled over at the first exit. Luck would have it that we found ourselves in East LA. We parked the bikes on a residential street lined with homes with bars on the door and windows. Two big Latino guys were sitting on the porch across the street probably wondering what these 2 Gringos were doing in this part of the hood. Well, since we really couldn't go anywhere, we figured we'd try to get something to eat and hope that the traffic and the engine temperature subsided by the time we were done.
Ed checks the GPS and sees a McD's, BK and some other fast food places nearby. Not really wanting fast food, I asked a UPS driver making a delivery across the street if there was someplace nearby to grab some dinner. He recommended a place around the corner named Mariscos Linda. Not knowing any better , and looking to find a better location to hole up, we moved on down the block and around the cornet to he restaurant. Well, tonight was just full of surprises. We park on the main road in front oof the place, and not really sure if it's open or not, I try the side red vinyl covered door and walk right into a dark bar. As my eyes adjust to the darkness, I see guys sitting around the bar and at small round tables in cowboy hats, a Mariachi band playing - what else - Mariachi music, talk in Spanish and laughter all abound - until I walk into the bar that is. Then I felt all got quiet and all eyes were on the Gringo. Where's Ed? I look behind me and see the door opening nad Ed entering. Make sure he sees me and we go through swinging saloon doors into a brightly lit restaurant dining room. There are only 2 tables in there with patrons. The décor was - what else - genuinely Mexican with bright colors and Mexican decorations.
We took a table and the waitress came over with menus and asked what we want to drink - Cervezas, of course - Dos Equis obviously. She comes back with the beers. After what we've been through today, they hit the spot. Ahhhhh..... I look over the menu - it's in Spanish but has photos of the meals - kind of like Chinese take out. I order the Whole Red Snapper dinner. It came with a salad, potato wedges, rice and a roll or tortillas. Ed orders the same. The dinner comes out and it looks just like the picture on the menu. And it was delicious. We made fish tacos and enjoyed every bite.
After dinner, we headed out on the last leg of our journey tonight - to San Diego. Only 2 hours away, we made it in 1 hour 40. We were guided to Kasey;s apartment with her trying to read a map over the phone - too a detour - got back on point and made it there safe and sound.
She greeted us at the curb and it was so great to see her after more than a year. She looks great!
Spent some time talking and finally conked out around 11PM.
Logged 580 miles today, 10,400 since I began. Long day, long ride, sweltering heat. But all is good!
As we frequently stopped at rest areas and gas stations to hydrate and wet out helmets, gloves and neck scarves - the only brief relief we had from the heat.
As we were going through LA in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic for about a 1/2 hour, Ed's bike overheated. His instruments lit up like a Christmas Tree, so we pulled over at the first exit. Luck would have it that we found ourselves in East LA. We parked the bikes on a residential street lined with homes with bars on the door and windows. Two big Latino guys were sitting on the porch across the street probably wondering what these 2 Gringos were doing in this part of the hood. Well, since we really couldn't go anywhere, we figured we'd try to get something to eat and hope that the traffic and the engine temperature subsided by the time we were done.
Ed checks the GPS and sees a McD's, BK and some other fast food places nearby. Not really wanting fast food, I asked a UPS driver making a delivery across the street if there was someplace nearby to grab some dinner. He recommended a place around the corner named Mariscos Linda. Not knowing any better , and looking to find a better location to hole up, we moved on down the block and around the cornet to he restaurant. Well, tonight was just full of surprises. We park on the main road in front oof the place, and not really sure if it's open or not, I try the side red vinyl covered door and walk right into a dark bar. As my eyes adjust to the darkness, I see guys sitting around the bar and at small round tables in cowboy hats, a Mariachi band playing - what else - Mariachi music, talk in Spanish and laughter all abound - until I walk into the bar that is. Then I felt all got quiet and all eyes were on the Gringo. Where's Ed? I look behind me and see the door opening nad Ed entering. Make sure he sees me and we go through swinging saloon doors into a brightly lit restaurant dining room. There are only 2 tables in there with patrons. The décor was - what else - genuinely Mexican with bright colors and Mexican decorations.
We took a table and the waitress came over with menus and asked what we want to drink - Cervezas, of course - Dos Equis obviously. She comes back with the beers. After what we've been through today, they hit the spot. Ahhhhh..... I look over the menu - it's in Spanish but has photos of the meals - kind of like Chinese take out. I order the Whole Red Snapper dinner. It came with a salad, potato wedges, rice and a roll or tortillas. Ed orders the same. The dinner comes out and it looks just like the picture on the menu. And it was delicious. We made fish tacos and enjoyed every bite.
After dinner, we headed out on the last leg of our journey tonight - to San Diego. Only 2 hours away, we made it in 1 hour 40. We were guided to Kasey;s apartment with her trying to read a map over the phone - too a detour - got back on point and made it there safe and sound.
She greeted us at the curb and it was so great to see her after more than a year. She looks great!
Spent some time talking and finally conked out around 11PM.
Logged 580 miles today, 10,400 since I began. Long day, long ride, sweltering heat. But all is good!
Wednesday, July 1, 2015
Gold Beach, Shipwreck, SeaFog, PCH, Cold, Hot, Redwoods, The Twisties, Williams - Day 32
We got up to a temp of 51F and had breakfast at XXX about a 1/2 mile from the hotel. After breakfast, a few pics of the Patterson Bridge - you can see the similarities, and then a run down the Oregon Coast.
At the start of the trip we passed through the small seaside town of Gold Beach and saw the remnants of a ship that obviously went aground and remains where it grounded for eternity. The weathering actually looks kind of cool as it sits right there at the shoreline.
Riding down the coast is a very interesting ride going through the many seaside and vacation towns each with its own character and architectures. As we ride, you can see the sea fog rolling inland covering the hilltops and the rock appendages along the shore. Sometimes it gives everything kind of an eerie look and you could almost see ghostlike apparitions floating among the fog. You could imagine sea and shore life as it may have looked a century or two ago.
As we continued riding down the coastline, we were continually accompanied by the fog and the temps remained in the 50's.
Eventually we crossed onto California with a greeting at the Agriculture checkpoint and made our way through the Redwood Forest surrounded by trees taller and wider than can be seen anywhere else in the World. The ride remained damp and cool and we didn't know how good we had it. It got so cool that I needed to put my riding liner on and change to my waterproof warm gloved about halfway through the Redwood ride.
That wasn't to last too long as we headed East for Highway 5 that's the major North/South route through the state. Little did we know hat had awaited us and little did we know what we were in store for. We took an exit for Rte 299 that cuts from Rte 101 on the coast to US 5 in the central part of the state. The road cut across a range of mountains that turned out to be an endurance run. 200 miles of the twistiest, turniest, winding roads through the barren forests with temps rising all the way. About 1/2 way through it was time to shed the jacket and the liner and change gloves.
I had to stop for a quick rest as the shoulders, neck and back got quite a workout. Time to apply sunscreen and ride in short sleeves and riding pants. It was a small relief as the sun and heat from the mountains were unforgiving. Before long, the temp had risen to 108.5F. That's an increase of 57.5 degrees in the span of just a few hours.
We made our way to Williams, CA and settled in for the night. We were pretty lucky as there was a good restaurant in town and after a cold beverage and a lasagna dinner, we were ready to hit the hay. Slept like a rock and didn't hear a thing until morning. Well earned and needed good night's rest.
At the start of the trip we passed through the small seaside town of Gold Beach and saw the remnants of a ship that obviously went aground and remains where it grounded for eternity. The weathering actually looks kind of cool as it sits right there at the shoreline.
Riding down the coast is a very interesting ride going through the many seaside and vacation towns each with its own character and architectures. As we ride, you can see the sea fog rolling inland covering the hilltops and the rock appendages along the shore. Sometimes it gives everything kind of an eerie look and you could almost see ghostlike apparitions floating among the fog. You could imagine sea and shore life as it may have looked a century or two ago.
As we continued riding down the coastline, we were continually accompanied by the fog and the temps remained in the 50's.
Eventually we crossed onto California with a greeting at the Agriculture checkpoint and made our way through the Redwood Forest surrounded by trees taller and wider than can be seen anywhere else in the World. The ride remained damp and cool and we didn't know how good we had it. It got so cool that I needed to put my riding liner on and change to my waterproof warm gloved about halfway through the Redwood ride.
That wasn't to last too long as we headed East for Highway 5 that's the major North/South route through the state. Little did we know hat had awaited us and little did we know what we were in store for. We took an exit for Rte 299 that cuts from Rte 101 on the coast to US 5 in the central part of the state. The road cut across a range of mountains that turned out to be an endurance run. 200 miles of the twistiest, turniest, winding roads through the barren forests with temps rising all the way. About 1/2 way through it was time to shed the jacket and the liner and change gloves.
I had to stop for a quick rest as the shoulders, neck and back got quite a workout. Time to apply sunscreen and ride in short sleeves and riding pants. It was a small relief as the sun and heat from the mountains were unforgiving. Before long, the temp had risen to 108.5F. That's an increase of 57.5 degrees in the span of just a few hours.
We made our way to Williams, CA and settled in for the night. We were pretty lucky as there was a good restaurant in town and after a cold beverage and a lasagna dinner, we were ready to hit the hay. Slept like a rock and didn't hear a thing until morning. Well earned and needed good night's rest.
Monday, June 29, 2015
Highway 101, Pacific Ocean, Arched Bridges, A Buck, A Turkey, No Vacancy - Day 31
For some reason, we both slept in late today. Ed was up at 8:30 and I couldn't believe the time ( he's usually up and moving around 6AM - but not today!). Looks like all the miles and long days are catching up with us. 30 days on the road and we're feeling it.
The beds were comfy and pillows soft and we just were soaking in the quiet 4th floor room - no one above walking around at all hours of the night. The A/C was quiet too. Nice accommodations at the LaQuinta Inn.
We went for breakfast at a diner across the street from the motel. When we left, the temp was 69 degrees F and when we came out about a 1/2 hour later 77. Was this a taste of what was to come for the rest of the day? Hope not.
Well, the theory of the rising temps turned out to be an incorrect assumption. We went up to the room to get our luggage and load it on the bikes and when we came back down, overcast and raindrops. Oh, well, get out the raingear and get ready for a wet ride.
No longer did we get underway did the rain stop, but not for long either. We headed south on I-5 toward Portland until we could tale a highway west to the coast and Rte 101 ( Oregon's scenic Pacific Byway). And what an awesome ride it was. Winding roads, hills, mountains, canopied forests, beautiful ocean views, arched bridges, and dropping temps all the way. Temp got down to 57F. Before then, it was time to shed the rain jacket for my riding jacket - waterproof too, but provides much better heat and wind resistance. That and a change of gloves did the trick.
We worked our way down the coast stopping periodically taking pics and admiring the bridges along the way. It seems that Oregon's Coastal Bridges were designed and built by the same man just after WWI - Conde B. McCullough. It may not seem like much, but this man did an aesthetic and engineering feat that looks great and provides protection from the salt spray and fog. Almost 100 years and these bridges still look like artwork. Their majestic arches supporting vehicles sometimes 1,000 feet or more above gorges and rivers throughout the coast. And, they all have similar looking features and you can definitely see the resemblance.
We stopped at a scenic view and looked down upon the famous Devil's Punch Bowl in Newport, Oregon- a natural rock formation allowing water from the ocean to pass through a hole in the rock through an arch and fill a "Bowl" with water. It looked great - nature makes the most incredible sights.
Further down the road we stopped in a town named Florence, OR. It's a seaside town along the ocean and after riding through the main street of activity, we stopped and asked some locals where we can find a good Bowl of chowder. The guy looked like an old biker and told us to go down the ramp leading to the docks and go the hut with he crab flags. It's the best you'll find around these parts, he said. It was just sold to a woman and the guy who previously owned it apparently gave his chowder recipe to the new owner. We get there and she ahs plenty of crabs, but no chowder. It's only the 2nd day she's opened. So, on to the strip of restaurants and we stop at Mo's. It's pretty much a tourist place like the ones at Fisherman's Warf in San Francisco and had a bowl of Clam Chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. It tasted like canned clam chowder and probably was.
Ok, snack time is over and we're burning daylight. It's 5PM and we still need to log some miles and find a place for the night. As we head south on the 101 the scenery gets scarce, few towns and less signs of civilization - not a good sign. We had our goals set on a town named Port Orford - about 2 hours south. We get there and not much to look at - things are not looking up. Up ahead before a turn at the end of town there are 2 arrows pointing up the hill and the words Ocean View painted in the road. There was also a sign for a motel, so we go up the hill. Sitting right in front of us is a nice looking motel wright on the ocean - looking good, until we get a little closer to the office that is. As I approach the office a Buck jumps out right in front of me and hops down past the office. The No Vacancy sign in the office put a damper in our spirits. There must be other motels in town you would think. And there were, except, buy the looks of the outsides of these places I wouldn't board my dog there - so - we do the familiar search maneuver. Next town, 38 miles. On the way Ed passes a wild turkey on the side of the road, but when I get close it decides to do a turkey trot to the middle of the road and just as Big Red is about to score #2 emblem for the gas tank, it changes direction at the last minute and gets to live another day. What the heck is it with these birds and suicide wishes anyway?
On our way there we cross abridge at about 30 miles and see a sign for a Motel 6 with a nice view of the bridge and the water. Do they have a room? Up a steep hill and a 180 degree turn, then another hill and there's the office. No signs saying no vacancy, so we go in the office and ask the dreaded question. And, yes, there is room at the inn. Saved again. It's 8PM and we're glad to find a clean room and settle in for the night.
The beds were comfy and pillows soft and we just were soaking in the quiet 4th floor room - no one above walking around at all hours of the night. The A/C was quiet too. Nice accommodations at the LaQuinta Inn.
We went for breakfast at a diner across the street from the motel. When we left, the temp was 69 degrees F and when we came out about a 1/2 hour later 77. Was this a taste of what was to come for the rest of the day? Hope not.
Well, the theory of the rising temps turned out to be an incorrect assumption. We went up to the room to get our luggage and load it on the bikes and when we came back down, overcast and raindrops. Oh, well, get out the raingear and get ready for a wet ride.
No longer did we get underway did the rain stop, but not for long either. We headed south on I-5 toward Portland until we could tale a highway west to the coast and Rte 101 ( Oregon's scenic Pacific Byway). And what an awesome ride it was. Winding roads, hills, mountains, canopied forests, beautiful ocean views, arched bridges, and dropping temps all the way. Temp got down to 57F. Before then, it was time to shed the rain jacket for my riding jacket - waterproof too, but provides much better heat and wind resistance. That and a change of gloves did the trick.
We worked our way down the coast stopping periodically taking pics and admiring the bridges along the way. It seems that Oregon's Coastal Bridges were designed and built by the same man just after WWI - Conde B. McCullough. It may not seem like much, but this man did an aesthetic and engineering feat that looks great and provides protection from the salt spray and fog. Almost 100 years and these bridges still look like artwork. Their majestic arches supporting vehicles sometimes 1,000 feet or more above gorges and rivers throughout the coast. And, they all have similar looking features and you can definitely see the resemblance.
We stopped at a scenic view and looked down upon the famous Devil's Punch Bowl in Newport, Oregon- a natural rock formation allowing water from the ocean to pass through a hole in the rock through an arch and fill a "Bowl" with water. It looked great - nature makes the most incredible sights.
Further down the road we stopped in a town named Florence, OR. It's a seaside town along the ocean and after riding through the main street of activity, we stopped and asked some locals where we can find a good Bowl of chowder. The guy looked like an old biker and told us to go down the ramp leading to the docks and go the hut with he crab flags. It's the best you'll find around these parts, he said. It was just sold to a woman and the guy who previously owned it apparently gave his chowder recipe to the new owner. We get there and she ahs plenty of crabs, but no chowder. It's only the 2nd day she's opened. So, on to the strip of restaurants and we stop at Mo's. It's pretty much a tourist place like the ones at Fisherman's Warf in San Francisco and had a bowl of Clam Chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. It tasted like canned clam chowder and probably was.
Ok, snack time is over and we're burning daylight. It's 5PM and we still need to log some miles and find a place for the night. As we head south on the 101 the scenery gets scarce, few towns and less signs of civilization - not a good sign. We had our goals set on a town named Port Orford - about 2 hours south. We get there and not much to look at - things are not looking up. Up ahead before a turn at the end of town there are 2 arrows pointing up the hill and the words Ocean View painted in the road. There was also a sign for a motel, so we go up the hill. Sitting right in front of us is a nice looking motel wright on the ocean - looking good, until we get a little closer to the office that is. As I approach the office a Buck jumps out right in front of me and hops down past the office. The No Vacancy sign in the office put a damper in our spirits. There must be other motels in town you would think. And there were, except, buy the looks of the outsides of these places I wouldn't board my dog there - so - we do the familiar search maneuver. Next town, 38 miles. On the way Ed passes a wild turkey on the side of the road, but when I get close it decides to do a turkey trot to the middle of the road and just as Big Red is about to score #2 emblem for the gas tank, it changes direction at the last minute and gets to live another day. What the heck is it with these birds and suicide wishes anyway?
On our way there we cross abridge at about 30 miles and see a sign for a Motel 6 with a nice view of the bridge and the water. Do they have a room? Up a steep hill and a 180 degree turn, then another hill and there's the office. No signs saying no vacancy, so we go in the office and ask the dreaded question. And, yes, there is room at the inn. Saved again. It's 8PM and we're glad to find a clean room and settle in for the night.
Sunday, June 28, 2015
Seattle, Beamers, Harleys, Salmon Creek, WA - Day 30
Today was a day to take care of business. Went with Ed to the BMW dealer and his front wheel was waiting for him, though it would take a while to get it installed. Since he'd be there a while, I thought it would be a good idea to get the oils and filter changed on Big Red, so while Ed's work was getting done, I could take care of Big Red at the same time.
Went to the Harley Dealer in Downtown Seattle only to find a clothing store, so I called and was given directions to the dealer in Belleview. After a 45 minute ride and several missed turns - I mean detours I finally arrive at the google map location for the dealership - except, no sign of the dealer in sight! So, once again I call and ask where the secret porthole is located. I tell the voice on the other end of the phone where I'm at and she says "that's the old location of the dealership - you're not the first one to tell me that". Google never updated their maps. So she gives me directions and I'm there in 5 minutes. Thankfully they can squeeze me in - not just for an oil change, but it seems my rear tire needs to be replaced too - so I ask "Can you do that too?" After a brief check with the day's workload I get the nod. Only that it may take most of the day. And it did. Got Big Red back on the road about 3:30PM. Ed met me there about 2PM and waited patiently.
Finally, onward south toward Portland, Oregon. Glad to get out of Seattle. Roads are crazy, but after riding around most of them this morning, came to understand why people like living here. The city is surrounded by water and there are snow-covered mountains all around. Nice views everywhere.
We stopped in Salmon Creek, WA (near the Washington/Oregon border)around 7PM and tried to find a room, but once again, there's a soccer tournament, a lacrosse tournament, a knitting knit-off, a ........... Everyone is booked we were told. I asked "where's your guest computer, get on trip advisor and book a room less than 1/4 mile away within minutes. Whew! Guess we haven't learned this skill yet.
Dinner at the local RoadHouse and done for the day.
Almost 9900 miles since the start - 9400+ from Key West. Don't know how many miles to go.
Off to points South tomorrow and maybe get to stop for a snack at VooDoo Donuts in Portland.
We'll be in California some time tomorrow before we stop. It was 93 degrees here after 8PM today. Hot day to ride. Hot again tomorrow.
Went to the Harley Dealer in Downtown Seattle only to find a clothing store, so I called and was given directions to the dealer in Belleview. After a 45 minute ride and several missed turns - I mean detours I finally arrive at the google map location for the dealership - except, no sign of the dealer in sight! So, once again I call and ask where the secret porthole is located. I tell the voice on the other end of the phone where I'm at and she says "that's the old location of the dealership - you're not the first one to tell me that". Google never updated their maps. So she gives me directions and I'm there in 5 minutes. Thankfully they can squeeze me in - not just for an oil change, but it seems my rear tire needs to be replaced too - so I ask "Can you do that too?" After a brief check with the day's workload I get the nod. Only that it may take most of the day. And it did. Got Big Red back on the road about 3:30PM. Ed met me there about 2PM and waited patiently.
Finally, onward south toward Portland, Oregon. Glad to get out of Seattle. Roads are crazy, but after riding around most of them this morning, came to understand why people like living here. The city is surrounded by water and there are snow-covered mountains all around. Nice views everywhere.
We stopped in Salmon Creek, WA (near the Washington/Oregon border)around 7PM and tried to find a room, but once again, there's a soccer tournament, a lacrosse tournament, a knitting knit-off, a ........... Everyone is booked we were told. I asked "where's your guest computer, get on trip advisor and book a room less than 1/4 mile away within minutes. Whew! Guess we haven't learned this skill yet.
Dinner at the local RoadHouse and done for the day.
Almost 9900 miles since the start - 9400+ from Key West. Don't know how many miles to go.
Off to points South tomorrow and maybe get to stop for a snack at VooDoo Donuts in Portland.
We'll be in California some time tomorrow before we stop. It was 93 degrees here after 8PM today. Hot day to ride. Hot again tomorrow.
Vancouver, BC, run for the Border, Seattle - Day 29
The day began with a breakfast at a place named Rollys - just around the corner from the hotel - and heading south for home. The ride from Hope, BC to Vancouver, BC was uneventful but leading all the way to the southernmost and westernmost city in Canada. We arrived at the Ferry Terminal along the waterfront and found a place with a view of the Bay and snow-capped mountains as a backdrop. Just picturesque with a 5,000lb boat prop in the foreground.
After a quick snack, back on the road to the good old USA. We crossed at the Peace Bridge crossing after a 30-40 minute wait, answered a few questions and heard have a nice day! Welcome Home!
After leaving the border crossing we still had a 2-hour ride to Seattle. Since we had made reservations the night before, we had a room waiting for us.
Went to the waterfront for dinner with a view of the bay in Edmond's Washington - about 15 minutes away from the hotel. Great food and views of the Edmonds-Kingston Ferry and mountains as a backdrop. It just don't get better than this!
Ed has an appointment in the AM to get the new wheel installed and his oil changed.
After a quick snack, back on the road to the good old USA. We crossed at the Peace Bridge crossing after a 30-40 minute wait, answered a few questions and heard have a nice day! Welcome Home!
After leaving the border crossing we still had a 2-hour ride to Seattle. Since we had made reservations the night before, we had a room waiting for us.
Went to the waterfront for dinner with a view of the bay in Edmond's Washington - about 15 minutes away from the hotel. Great food and views of the Edmonds-Kingston Ferry and mountains as a backdrop. It just don't get better than this!
Ed has an appointment in the AM to get the new wheel installed and his oil changed.
Friday, June 26, 2015
Train Whistles, The Canyon, Hells' Gate, Wildfires and Hope - Day 28
Last night was by far the most sleepless nights I've had on the trip. On the way into town, there was lots of industrial businesses - logging, sawmills, wood chips all loaded on train cars. It should have been a warning of what was yet to come. Kind of puzzling that there would be miles of train cars all hooked up with no where to go - or so I thought. Apparently, this is the busiest rail corridor in North America with 1 Million rail cars a month passing through. Who knew?
Once again, visions of the My Cousin Vinny movie when all of a sudden after 1AM there's a rumble, things begin to shake, and then the train whistles start. Not going to be a good night. Needless to say I got about 1-2 hours sleep. Woke up tired sleepy and began the day.
We headed out of Vanderhoof with Hope, BC as a goal. It's near the border - perfect position for a border crossing on Friday through Vancouver and into Seattle.
Once we left Iskut, road traffic picked up and the road conditions improved significantly. Vanderhoof is a busy town. Al the conveniences you could want and looks like plenty of employment - during summer months at least. On the road to Vanderhoof, we passed many lakes region vacation towns all by lakes and all looked busy. Plenty of farms and ranches as well. A big change from the past few weeks of riding both headed north and as we head east and south, before we head west and south. Not such a big selection of roads and routes up here.
The highlight of the trip today was the Fraser Canyon. The mountains in the canyon aren't steep and all rock, they're dirt and gradually slope. Reminded me of the Diablo Canyon northeast of San Francisco. Very similar with one difference - the Fraser river. The river is long and wide and runs swiftly for the whole length we rode it. Our ride took us south on RTE 1 along the mountain slopes and cliffs edges most of the afternoon and almost all the way to Hope.
There are several tunnels through the mountains for cars and trucks and on the opposite side of the river you can see railroad cutouts in the mountains for the railroad to pass as well. The scenery is just beautiful and the trains are probably as long as allowed and look to be at least a mile long. The train kept pace with my bike at 40mph.
At one point the river narrows at a choke point called Hells Gate. There's a tram that takes you across for free, but wasn't running when I passed.
Another site along the mountains as we got farther south, were not just that the snow-capped peaks re-appeared, but there were several burning wildfires visible from the road. A helicopter flew overhead probably to assess the danger as it wasn't equipped to carry or drop water.
Landed in Hope around 8PM MT and after a quick shower and blog entry, hit the hay.
Over 9,000 miles total so far. I'll try to get some pics and stats up after we hit the states again and have better internet service and better computers.
Until then...........
Once again, visions of the My Cousin Vinny movie when all of a sudden after 1AM there's a rumble, things begin to shake, and then the train whistles start. Not going to be a good night. Needless to say I got about 1-2 hours sleep. Woke up tired sleepy and began the day.
We headed out of Vanderhoof with Hope, BC as a goal. It's near the border - perfect position for a border crossing on Friday through Vancouver and into Seattle.
Once we left Iskut, road traffic picked up and the road conditions improved significantly. Vanderhoof is a busy town. Al the conveniences you could want and looks like plenty of employment - during summer months at least. On the road to Vanderhoof, we passed many lakes region vacation towns all by lakes and all looked busy. Plenty of farms and ranches as well. A big change from the past few weeks of riding both headed north and as we head east and south, before we head west and south. Not such a big selection of roads and routes up here.
The highlight of the trip today was the Fraser Canyon. The mountains in the canyon aren't steep and all rock, they're dirt and gradually slope. Reminded me of the Diablo Canyon northeast of San Francisco. Very similar with one difference - the Fraser river. The river is long and wide and runs swiftly for the whole length we rode it. Our ride took us south on RTE 1 along the mountain slopes and cliffs edges most of the afternoon and almost all the way to Hope.
There are several tunnels through the mountains for cars and trucks and on the opposite side of the river you can see railroad cutouts in the mountains for the railroad to pass as well. The scenery is just beautiful and the trains are probably as long as allowed and look to be at least a mile long. The train kept pace with my bike at 40mph.
At one point the river narrows at a choke point called Hells Gate. There's a tram that takes you across for free, but wasn't running when I passed.
Another site along the mountains as we got farther south, were not just that the snow-capped peaks re-appeared, but there were several burning wildfires visible from the road. A helicopter flew overhead probably to assess the danger as it wasn't equipped to carry or drop water.
Landed in Hope around 8PM MT and after a quick shower and blog entry, hit the hay.
Over 9,000 miles total so far. I'll try to get some pics and stats up after we hit the states again and have better internet service and better computers.
Until then...........
Thursday, June 25, 2015
The Bear, More Red Goat, Banjos, Breakfast, BlackBird-0 Big Red-1, The Bull - Day 27
When we checked in I asked if there's breakfast here and you saw the reply. What I didn't get is that before we left the "Lodge" the woman said 8AM. When we finally ended eating dinner and went to the "Cabin" we get a good look. It reminds me if a garden shed with 2 twin beds. Everything except a small dresser and 2 small glass top end tables is made of plywood. The bathroom door had 2 holes for door locks, but only one lock. That means there's an open hole with a piece of tape over part of it. The shelves are plywood, the floors are plywood, the ceilings and walls are plywood. No insulation, no fan, no A/C, did have a radiator though. It even had electricity and running water. Hot some times too!!! But we realize around 11PM, no soap. So Ed goes to the "Office" and rings a bell ad asks for soap. So far so good.
So we go to sleep and I could hear the dog barking at the bear and I swear I heard banjo music in the background sometimes. Thankfully the outside door had a lock - and yes, it was locked.
We get up before 8 and shower, change, etc, and go to the "Lodge" for breakfast. Ed gets there first and there are 2 breakfasts on the table. I get there around 8:10 and now there's a guy in there with the woman who checked us in and he asks if I was the guy who rang the bell at 11:30 at night. I say, hey, we had no soap for the morning ( or evening for that matter). He wasn't a happy type and was probably the guy playing the banjo last night. Cold breakfast. At least there wasn't an extra charge for it!
When we finish and head back to the "cabin" we see the bear. The dog ( a maltese) is barking and the 2 guys are trying to get it to leave so that they can get into one of the trailers for some nails. The bear climbs up a tree and stays for a while, then comes back down and runs into the woods. We take its que and pack up the bikes and leave. Au revoir mes amis!
Hit the road and ride through some of the most beautiful countryside - partly in the rain. It rains on and off all day. The roads get better as we go south and are twisty, hilly, and surrounded by snow-capped mountains in every direction. The temperature is perfect. Rivers, streams, and lakes everywhere - in the middle of nowhere. Most of it pristine and untouched. The water color is a clean clear blue/green color reflecting the trees and skies. A pleasure to ride through it today.
Our goal is to make it to Burns Lake and find a room. We didn't learn from yesterday, but did start looking earlier. Just as yesterday, it was still tourist season, and you guessed it, no vacancies, so on to Fraser lake a 1/2 hour down the road. The pickings didn't look too much better than last night, so we passed up an opportunity to relive some old memories - Thankfully!
On the way to Fraser Lake, as we're riding along the road at a good clip - about 70, I'm always scanning the road for potholes and anomalies and especially scanning the sides of the road for anything black or brown moving toward the pavement. There are signs everywhere along these highways warning of moose, bear, deer, reindeer. As I'm scanning, I see a black object dart out of the bushes on the side of the road and head for my motorcycle. It was a blackbird that tried to taunt Big Red and me and had an unexpected outcome. The bird darted low and I felt it hit my right foot and then nothing but feathers and a black blob rolling to the shoulder. The bird lost and Big Red saved me! WTH else is lurking in the bushed at the sides of the road planning to dart out - nothing bigger than that blackbird I hope, or the outcome would have been quite different.
On to Vanderhoof, BC, about another 1/2 hour farther east. Bingo, we scored a room and met some guys from Holland coming from Fairbanks and headed to Vancouver - same route as us tomorrow.
Had dinner and here we are. Another day closer to home. Can't wait to get back to the good old USA - it takes a special person to live in the Northwest Canadian Provinces. I'm not a fan.
Saw a Bull grazing on the side of the road on the way here too. All by itself. There are signs everywhere along the highway warning to watch out for livestock on the highway as well.
More to come.............
So we go to sleep and I could hear the dog barking at the bear and I swear I heard banjo music in the background sometimes. Thankfully the outside door had a lock - and yes, it was locked.
We get up before 8 and shower, change, etc, and go to the "Lodge" for breakfast. Ed gets there first and there are 2 breakfasts on the table. I get there around 8:10 and now there's a guy in there with the woman who checked us in and he asks if I was the guy who rang the bell at 11:30 at night. I say, hey, we had no soap for the morning ( or evening for that matter). He wasn't a happy type and was probably the guy playing the banjo last night. Cold breakfast. At least there wasn't an extra charge for it!
When we finish and head back to the "cabin" we see the bear. The dog ( a maltese) is barking and the 2 guys are trying to get it to leave so that they can get into one of the trailers for some nails. The bear climbs up a tree and stays for a while, then comes back down and runs into the woods. We take its que and pack up the bikes and leave. Au revoir mes amis!
Hit the road and ride through some of the most beautiful countryside - partly in the rain. It rains on and off all day. The roads get better as we go south and are twisty, hilly, and surrounded by snow-capped mountains in every direction. The temperature is perfect. Rivers, streams, and lakes everywhere - in the middle of nowhere. Most of it pristine and untouched. The water color is a clean clear blue/green color reflecting the trees and skies. A pleasure to ride through it today.
Our goal is to make it to Burns Lake and find a room. We didn't learn from yesterday, but did start looking earlier. Just as yesterday, it was still tourist season, and you guessed it, no vacancies, so on to Fraser lake a 1/2 hour down the road. The pickings didn't look too much better than last night, so we passed up an opportunity to relive some old memories - Thankfully!
On the way to Fraser Lake, as we're riding along the road at a good clip - about 70, I'm always scanning the road for potholes and anomalies and especially scanning the sides of the road for anything black or brown moving toward the pavement. There are signs everywhere along these highways warning of moose, bear, deer, reindeer. As I'm scanning, I see a black object dart out of the bushes on the side of the road and head for my motorcycle. It was a blackbird that tried to taunt Big Red and me and had an unexpected outcome. The bird darted low and I felt it hit my right foot and then nothing but feathers and a black blob rolling to the shoulder. The bird lost and Big Red saved me! WTH else is lurking in the bushed at the sides of the road planning to dart out - nothing bigger than that blackbird I hope, or the outcome would have been quite different.
On to Vanderhoof, BC, about another 1/2 hour farther east. Bingo, we scored a room and met some guys from Holland coming from Fairbanks and headed to Vancouver - same route as us tomorrow.
Had dinner and here we are. Another day closer to home. Can't wait to get back to the good old USA - it takes a special person to live in the Northwest Canadian Provinces. I'm not a fan.
Saw a Bull grazing on the side of the road on the way here too. All by itself. There are signs everywhere along the highway warning to watch out for livestock on the highway as well.
More to come.............
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Whitehorse, Burnt Toast, The Construction Zone, The Cassier Highway, No Pressure and the Red Goat - Day 26
The hotel we stayed at in Whitehorse was just about the nosiest and coldest place on earth! We had a ground floor room and there were 2 other biker travelers above us walking around and dropping things at all hours of the night, Besides them , there was a room of either natives (more likely) or Mexicans in the next room. The about 4 or 5 girls show up. They made a racket all night. To top things off, the room was stuffy, so I turned the A/C on and the temp readout was 24C - about 76F. The white noise form the A/C thankfully helped drown out some of the noise. Got some sleep, but woke up tired and cold - A/C had a mind of its own.
We walk downtown - about 3 blocks and have breakfast at a place called Burnt Toast. Typical breakfast - eggs, toast (not burnt), Yukon Potatoes, bacon, coffee.
Load the bikes, pump up Ed's front tire and we're off. Not long after we're on the road, we hit our favorite stretch of roadway - the Construction Zone. Wait for a Pilot Car, ride slowly through soft gravel and dirt fast enough to not drop the bike and continue on.
Our goal for the day was Dease Lake - about 420 miles away. Once we Hit BC, we do the YT, BC two-step as the Alaska Highway weaves itself through both Canadian Provinces.
On the way, we fill Ed's tire about every 100 miles, stop for lunch in Nugget City - one of those gas, food, gift shop RV combo places - yep, that's it - Nugget City. Last chance for gas for 283km.
We do a routine stop to pump up the tire in the middle of no where, literally, no where and guess what? The tire pressure goes from 35lbs to 15lbs in no time flat. And even better, the air pump is dead. That's right - no pressure out of the pump. I go and ride back to see if I can find that group of bicyclists we passed about 10 miles back to see if they have a manual pump. Find them about 5 miles back and yes, they do have a pump, so I get back to Ed and start flagging down anything that goes by. A guy form Indiana stops and has a pump. Yes! Saved. As we're pumping the tire, the bicyclists catch up and stop. By then, the pressure id up ad we're on our way.
We finally make it to Dease Lake and on the way, we see a brown bear just walking on the side of the road. Since we're on motorcycles and he's a bear, we look and keep going.
We finally get to Dease Lake, gas up, and check the store for a portable air pump - voila, they have one, so Ed gets it. Back in business. Now to find a room. Before we leave the pump, Ed realizes he's missing his waterproof sack from his seat. Well, we're at the pump and there's a guy in a car filling up. He asks, any of you lose a sack? And out comes Ed's sack. Things are looking up. Try for a room, and there's none to be had.
You have to understand, this is a gravel and paved road that has nothing in over 150 miles. We ask at the store about the next place that a have a room and they tell us it's 80km down the road. 50 miles later, the place is out of business, so we move south. About 2 miles later, we see a sign near a dirt road that says Red Goat Cabins. We take the turn and back in business. We gat a cabin on a lake for the night. When signing in at the restaurant, office, restroom, dining hall, we smell fish. Ask if dinner is still available and the response is yes, fish and chips. So we order, unpack, change, and back to he office, etc, and dinner is ready. Hits the spot.
We pay and ask if breakfast is served, and the woman replies yes, breakfast food. Eggs, bacon, etc. Sounds good. Walk down to the lake and take a few pics, back to the cabin, write this stuff, and out.
WIFI is spotty at best, so pics will more than likely come when we get back to civilization and the good old USA. Can't wait.
Tuesday, June 23, 2015
Anchorage, Kenai, Soldata, Father's Day Run, Beaver Creek, Whitehorse - Days 22-25
I've been out of touch for a few days due to several factors. On Thursday morning, I finally picked up Big Red. The bike had not only had the voltage regulator finally replaced ( only4 months after I told Harley that that was the problem - an before I left Florida to boot) but the read dampers as well. It looked clean as it was washed too. This is only temporary as an hour on the road will return it to it's Alaska/Yukon/British Columbia look once again.
After we left Fairbanks, we headed south for Anchorage and Ed's sister's house. As we got close, it got late in the day and we almost decided to stop in a city named Palmer, but her house was only about an hour and a half away, so we decided to make a run it. We arrived after 10PM and even though it still looking like 3PM everyone was asleep. We snuck into the house quietly and I was asleep within minutes.
In the morning Ed's sister came home early and they dropped Ed's bike at the BMW dealer for a new set of tires. I decided to take a ride to downtown to see if I could get my bike in for a 5,000 mile service at Anchorage Harley. Wasn't meant to be. They're not too friendly in this northernmost state. No appoints available that day or the next, so I asked to call nearby ( 3 hours is the closest, ha, ha) and Kenai Harley in Soldata, AK was able to get me in on Saturday.
I spent some time downtown riding and walking around for awhile just to se the city. Nice place, but small. Tour buses unloading and loading tourists to shop in the downtown shops.
Found my way back to Ed's sister's and stopped at the local Fire Station to see if I could buy a t-shirt. They told me they sell them at HQ - where else - downtown. Had lunch and then headed back downtown for a visit to AFD HQ. Met the chief in the parking lot and told him I was NY Vol firefighter and he invited me in. Had his crew give me a tour, invited me to stay for dinner, have some drinks, stay for a movie, make myself at home. Since Ed's sister Carol was making dinner, I knew I had to be back at the house by 6, so I thanked them all for their hospitality, bought a t-shirt, and just as I was about to exit - bam - a hit. An alarm came in and I didn't believe what I saw. These guys still use the pole to slide down from the first floor to the engine floor. I had never seen an active fire house where they still use the poles. What a treat!
After being treated like family, I couldn't return empty handed, so I ask some locals where I can find a bakery or get a cake or something for dessert. They direct me to this store that's like a grocery store and I see this incredible fruit tart in the display case - I just had to have it! They packed it in a box like a bakery and I put it in my Tour pack and cross my fingers that it makes it back to the house in one piece. I should have taken a picture of it - it looked so good. I get to Carol and Steve's ( her husband) and just in time for dinner. When we finished it was time for dessert. Everyone loved it - and yes, it did survive intact.
First thing Saturday morning, I get up early - not a sound in the house yet, and head for the Kenai Peninsula. A little brisk and overcast, but a beautiful ride along the mountains and water most of the way. After 3 hours, get to the dealer, the shop is empty, and they take Big Red right in. What a relief. 3 hours later, Big Red comes out just washed - kinda washed since most of the dirt came off , I pay the man and another 3 hours back. Left at 9AM and got back at 6PM. Over 300 miles there and back riding though some beautiful parts of Alaskan scenery.
Ed must have damaged and dented his rim either on the Dalton Highway to eh Circle or on the road from Whitehorse - which was even worse. He was leaking air even with the new tires. The BMW dealer wouldn't touch the rim as he didn't have the right tools. We did the best we could with a hammer and a piece of hardwood, and later with a c-clamp.
Father's Day Run included a tire that still leaks air and needed to be filled often so that we could continue South and East. Ed had a compressor and we headed toward the Canadian border and Beaver Creek. No drama crossing the border this time. Once across, we instantly lose an hour - back on Pacific Time. All I had to know was my plate number and it was "Have a good day". When we stopped, the flies and other bugs were horrible and I think the border agent couldn't wait to close the window.
Got a room and dinner, met some other bikers both coming and going to the Circle or Prudhoe and nodded off.
Monday Morning - Day 25 - destination: Whitehorse, YT. Made it there by 5PM or so, got a room and went to dinner after a quick clean up and change out of the riding gear. Chinese tonight. Back to the hotel, write this day's entry and off to never, never land. I do have pics and I'll post when I can. About 7400 miles or so total for me. I'll get some numbers and pics next time.
Ed found a rim on Ebay for 1/2 it's cost new ($1100 or so) and is having it shipped to a BMW dealer in Seattle. No other option but to keep an eye on the tire pressure, fill it when it needs it an make way to Seattle. Should be there either Thursday night or Friday morning.
Wish us luck....................................
After we left Fairbanks, we headed south for Anchorage and Ed's sister's house. As we got close, it got late in the day and we almost decided to stop in a city named Palmer, but her house was only about an hour and a half away, so we decided to make a run it. We arrived after 10PM and even though it still looking like 3PM everyone was asleep. We snuck into the house quietly and I was asleep within minutes.
In the morning Ed's sister came home early and they dropped Ed's bike at the BMW dealer for a new set of tires. I decided to take a ride to downtown to see if I could get my bike in for a 5,000 mile service at Anchorage Harley. Wasn't meant to be. They're not too friendly in this northernmost state. No appoints available that day or the next, so I asked to call nearby ( 3 hours is the closest, ha, ha) and Kenai Harley in Soldata, AK was able to get me in on Saturday.
I spent some time downtown riding and walking around for awhile just to se the city. Nice place, but small. Tour buses unloading and loading tourists to shop in the downtown shops.
Found my way back to Ed's sister's and stopped at the local Fire Station to see if I could buy a t-shirt. They told me they sell them at HQ - where else - downtown. Had lunch and then headed back downtown for a visit to AFD HQ. Met the chief in the parking lot and told him I was NY Vol firefighter and he invited me in. Had his crew give me a tour, invited me to stay for dinner, have some drinks, stay for a movie, make myself at home. Since Ed's sister Carol was making dinner, I knew I had to be back at the house by 6, so I thanked them all for their hospitality, bought a t-shirt, and just as I was about to exit - bam - a hit. An alarm came in and I didn't believe what I saw. These guys still use the pole to slide down from the first floor to the engine floor. I had never seen an active fire house where they still use the poles. What a treat!
After being treated like family, I couldn't return empty handed, so I ask some locals where I can find a bakery or get a cake or something for dessert. They direct me to this store that's like a grocery store and I see this incredible fruit tart in the display case - I just had to have it! They packed it in a box like a bakery and I put it in my Tour pack and cross my fingers that it makes it back to the house in one piece. I should have taken a picture of it - it looked so good. I get to Carol and Steve's ( her husband) and just in time for dinner. When we finished it was time for dessert. Everyone loved it - and yes, it did survive intact.
First thing Saturday morning, I get up early - not a sound in the house yet, and head for the Kenai Peninsula. A little brisk and overcast, but a beautiful ride along the mountains and water most of the way. After 3 hours, get to the dealer, the shop is empty, and they take Big Red right in. What a relief. 3 hours later, Big Red comes out just washed - kinda washed since most of the dirt came off , I pay the man and another 3 hours back. Left at 9AM and got back at 6PM. Over 300 miles there and back riding though some beautiful parts of Alaskan scenery.
Ed must have damaged and dented his rim either on the Dalton Highway to eh Circle or on the road from Whitehorse - which was even worse. He was leaking air even with the new tires. The BMW dealer wouldn't touch the rim as he didn't have the right tools. We did the best we could with a hammer and a piece of hardwood, and later with a c-clamp.
Father's Day Run included a tire that still leaks air and needed to be filled often so that we could continue South and East. Ed had a compressor and we headed toward the Canadian border and Beaver Creek. No drama crossing the border this time. Once across, we instantly lose an hour - back on Pacific Time. All I had to know was my plate number and it was "Have a good day". When we stopped, the flies and other bugs were horrible and I think the border agent couldn't wait to close the window.
Got a room and dinner, met some other bikers both coming and going to the Circle or Prudhoe and nodded off.
Monday Morning - Day 25 - destination: Whitehorse, YT. Made it there by 5PM or so, got a room and went to dinner after a quick clean up and change out of the riding gear. Chinese tonight. Back to the hotel, write this day's entry and off to never, never land. I do have pics and I'll post when I can. About 7400 miles or so total for me. I'll get some numbers and pics next time.
Ed found a rim on Ebay for 1/2 it's cost new ($1100 or so) and is having it shipped to a BMW dealer in Seattle. No other option but to keep an eye on the tire pressure, fill it when it needs it an make way to Seattle. Should be there either Thursday night or Friday morning.
Wish us luck....................................
Thursday, June 18, 2015
Latitude 66 degrees 33 minutes North - The Circle - Day 21
Got up early and went the meet the motorcycle rental guy a few blocks away. After doing the paperwork and getting some instruction on the instruments and controls on the BMW as well as some tips for the road, I suited up and wen tot meet Ed at the hotel.
Set out for breakfast at a local restaurant and headed north. 197 miles to the arctic circle from our hotel.
Fumbling with the controls on the motorcycle until my hands and feet became familiar with their positions and responses we set out for our journeys goal. The road to the arctic circle isn't for the queasy, the Sunday driver, or non-confident motorcycle rider. The main part of the journey is on the haul road, the ice trucker road, the road warrior road.
Sand, gravel, freshly spread wet oil, bumps, holes, construction, hills, mountains, sharp turns, trucks, trucks, trucks. We were pretty lucky as the traffic on the road today was light until we were more than halfway back. The weather gods cooperated by drenching us in warm sunshine and clear skies.
We crossed the Yukon River and gassed up. Last gas for 120 miles. A milestone on the road to the circle and points north.
Now, it would have been the ultimate to ride to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska - or Deadhorse ( wonder how it got that name?), but the road 20 miles south of there was completely washed out and under water, so there's heavy construction going on there and the ride is another 7 hours from our destination today. Took us 5+ hours to the circle. Met several other riders also going to the same place. Most seem to be on BMW's , though there were some Harley riders as well as other touring model. .For the feint of heart, there is a mini-tour bus that runs tours there in air-conditioned comfort. After today's experience, it didn't look too bad.
The bike I rented was just perfect for this road, and performed exceptionally well almost all the way there. After we gassed up at the Yukon River Camp, the bike began to buck, losing power, then regaining it. This went on to the circle and back to Fairbanks. What a treat. Ed's calling me a serial cycle killer. That's 2 biked down on one ride. Fortunately I learned how to make the ride work - no cell service, so no other option, and got it back to the rental office. I don't know what the issue is, but I'm not having much luck lately with motorcycles. Maybe it's an omen, maybe it's bad luck, maybe it's meant to happen so that I have some interesting stories to tell about the ride. Who knows for sure, but one thing for sure is that I'll never forget any of it!
Set out for breakfast at a local restaurant and headed north. 197 miles to the arctic circle from our hotel.
Fumbling with the controls on the motorcycle until my hands and feet became familiar with their positions and responses we set out for our journeys goal. The road to the arctic circle isn't for the queasy, the Sunday driver, or non-confident motorcycle rider. The main part of the journey is on the haul road, the ice trucker road, the road warrior road.
Sand, gravel, freshly spread wet oil, bumps, holes, construction, hills, mountains, sharp turns, trucks, trucks, trucks. We were pretty lucky as the traffic on the road today was light until we were more than halfway back. The weather gods cooperated by drenching us in warm sunshine and clear skies.
We crossed the Yukon River and gassed up. Last gas for 120 miles. A milestone on the road to the circle and points north.
The sign reads Arctic Circle
Now, it would have been the ultimate to ride to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska - or Deadhorse ( wonder how it got that name?), but the road 20 miles south of there was completely washed out and under water, so there's heavy construction going on there and the ride is another 7 hours from our destination today. Took us 5+ hours to the circle. Met several other riders also going to the same place. Most seem to be on BMW's , though there were some Harley riders as well as other touring model. .For the feint of heart, there is a mini-tour bus that runs tours there in air-conditioned comfort. After today's experience, it didn't look too bad.
Yukon River Camp
Touched the Circle !!
Me and Ed at the Circle
The Hot Spot Café - in the middle of nowhere
Dalton Highway Sign
Dalton Highway Sign Map
The bike I rented was just perfect for this road, and performed exceptionally well almost all the way there. After we gassed up at the Yukon River Camp, the bike began to buck, losing power, then regaining it. This went on to the circle and back to Fairbanks. What a treat. Ed's calling me a serial cycle killer. That's 2 biked down on one ride. Fortunately I learned how to make the ride work - no cell service, so no other option, and got it back to the rental office. I don't know what the issue is, but I'm not having much luck lately with motorcycles. Maybe it's an omen, maybe it's bad luck, maybe it's meant to happen so that I have some interesting stories to tell about the ride. Who knows for sure, but one thing for sure is that I'll never forget any of it!
Calling Harley - Wednesday - June 16 - Day 20
Began by calling the Harley dealer to find out the status with the motorcycle. It took a good part of the day calling the local dealer, calling Extended Service Plan, calling insurance, calling Harley in Milwaukee trying to get things rolling. No one here seems to be in a hurry and nothing seems to be a priority. I guess we're now on Alaska time. Time to think, time to ponder, time to evaluate, time to test, time to retest, endless time here. There's just not much else to do. Nut I did finally get to post some pics on the blog. Enjoy.
Rented a BMW 650 GS for tomorrow's ride to the Circle.
Hope to do what tom told us to do when we were in Great Falls. Touch the Circle. Later.........
Cedar Planked Wild Alaska Salmon dinner at the Chena Alaskan Grill Restaurant
along the Chena River in Fairbanks.
Rented a BMW 650 GS for tomorrow's ride to the Circle.
Hope to do what tom told us to do when we were in Great Falls. Touch the Circle. Later.........
Tuesday, June 16, 2015
Tok, Flatline, Flatbed, Fairbanks - Day 19
Today we started out in what was to be a beautiful warm day with clear blue skies. First a stop at Fast Eddy's for breakfast. hey have an item on the breakfast menu I doubt you'll se anywhere else in the US - Reindeer Sausages. Couldn't resist, so ordered them. Not bad!
One thing on my mind as we leave this morning is that check engine light and battery indicator on the instrument panel. With no option, we pointed the handlebars north and headed for Fairbanks.
Everything seemed ok ( other than the trouble lights), and yes, they mean trouble, but with no Harley dealer - or other motorcycle dealer in Tok - nearest place was Fairbanks.
All was going well until I saw a sign that read "Fairbanks - 102 miles". A little further down the road just south of a place called Delta Junction, things started going whacky. The speedometer was the first indication. 65 - 0 - 65 and back and forth for a while, so I slowed down. Next thing was that the ABS indicator lights up and starts flashing, the check engine and battery lights are out, speedo shows 0mph , even though I'm still moving, so I look for a place to get the bike safely to the side of the road and wait or the inevitable. Cough, cough, odometer begins to flash then stops. Then the engine dies. All is dead. No battery, no electrical, nowhere to go.
Now I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere with a dead Harley. Ed is far ahead by this time as soon as the comms are out of range, that's it. I couldn't be luckier than where this HOG decided to die as it's not far from the Delta Junction Regional Airport and fortunately there was cell service. Otherwise, I'd be hiking it who knows how far looking for a signal - can you say "Can you hear me now?" I call Ed to let him now what happened and leave a message as he's probably in a dead zone - what a surprise.
Ed calls back a short time later and I let him know what happened and since he's already between me and Fairbanks, tell him it's best to go ahead as I have a tow truck on the way. I'll call him once I get to the Harley Dealer.
Me and Big Red. Looking north, south and a candid with Big Dead Red waiting for the tow truck.
While waiting 3+ hours for the tow truck, many people stopped and asked if all was alright and if I needed help. A road ranger also stopped and gave me a much needed bottle of water in this 80 degree heat. Now, that doorag isn't for the biker effect, it's to protect my cranium from turning the color of my shirt!
I called the Harley dealer earlier to find out how late they are opened, and they said 6PM. Well, the tow truck arrives after 4 and it's a 2+ hour ride to Fairbanks. I give them a heads up that I may be late and the service guy says he'll be there until 7. Lucked out again - if you can call it that. So, 5+ hours after breakdown we arrive in Fairbanks at the Harley dealer, pay for the tow - OUCH!, and get it into the shop to be tucked in for the night.
Ed luckily already got a room within walking distance, but will al my gear and bags, couldn't make it in one trip. The service guy offered a lift which I gladly took.
Forgot to take a pic of the Big Red in the tow truck, I'd loved to have sent it to Harley as a testament to the reliability of their motorcycles. Maybe I should change the bike name from Big Red to Big Dead.
Will wait for a call in the AM to see what the damages are.
One thing on my mind as we leave this morning is that check engine light and battery indicator on the instrument panel. With no option, we pointed the handlebars north and headed for Fairbanks.
Everything seemed ok ( other than the trouble lights), and yes, they mean trouble, but with no Harley dealer - or other motorcycle dealer in Tok - nearest place was Fairbanks.
All was going well until I saw a sign that read "Fairbanks - 102 miles". A little further down the road just south of a place called Delta Junction, things started going whacky. The speedometer was the first indication. 65 - 0 - 65 and back and forth for a while, so I slowed down. Next thing was that the ABS indicator lights up and starts flashing, the check engine and battery lights are out, speedo shows 0mph , even though I'm still moving, so I look for a place to get the bike safely to the side of the road and wait or the inevitable. Cough, cough, odometer begins to flash then stops. Then the engine dies. All is dead. No battery, no electrical, nowhere to go.
Now I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere with a dead Harley. Ed is far ahead by this time as soon as the comms are out of range, that's it. I couldn't be luckier than where this HOG decided to die as it's not far from the Delta Junction Regional Airport and fortunately there was cell service. Otherwise, I'd be hiking it who knows how far looking for a signal - can you say "Can you hear me now?" I call Ed to let him now what happened and leave a message as he's probably in a dead zone - what a surprise.
Ed calls back a short time later and I let him know what happened and since he's already between me and Fairbanks, tell him it's best to go ahead as I have a tow truck on the way. I'll call him once I get to the Harley Dealer.
Me and Big Red. Looking north, south and a candid with Big Dead Red waiting for the tow truck.
While waiting 3+ hours for the tow truck, many people stopped and asked if all was alright and if I needed help. A road ranger also stopped and gave me a much needed bottle of water in this 80 degree heat. Now, that doorag isn't for the biker effect, it's to protect my cranium from turning the color of my shirt!
I called the Harley dealer earlier to find out how late they are opened, and they said 6PM. Well, the tow truck arrives after 4 and it's a 2+ hour ride to Fairbanks. I give them a heads up that I may be late and the service guy says he'll be there until 7. Lucked out again - if you can call it that. So, 5+ hours after breakdown we arrive in Fairbanks at the Harley dealer, pay for the tow - OUCH!, and get it into the shop to be tucked in for the night.
Ed luckily already got a room within walking distance, but will al my gear and bags, couldn't make it in one trip. The service guy offered a lift which I gladly took.
Forgot to take a pic of the Big Red in the tow truck, I'd loved to have sent it to Harley as a testament to the reliability of their motorcycles. Maybe I should change the bike name from Big Red to Big Dead.
Will wait for a call in the AM to see what the damages are.
Monday, June 15, 2015
Whitehorse, Mountains, Rocks, Mechanical Bull, Gas, Tok - Day 18
Got another early start today and headed for the border, the US border this time. Left Teslin, YT for Tok before 8AM. Rode through the most beautiful countryside dotes with snow-capped mountains, crystal blue lakes and rivers that didn't fade all day. Another turn, another site fit for an artist. Almost anywhere you look is a scene of nature better than the last.
We first stopped for breakfast in Johnson's Crossing, a place where the American Army established a camp during WWII while building the highway. Temps were favorable and sunshine all the way.
Next stop was for gas in Whitehorse, capitol of the YT. Sunday morning, so not much action in the town. Plenty of motorcycles around as there was a Harley rally in Fairbanks this weekend.
Today was the longest riding day and the most mileage in one day. Partly because of all of the construction on the Alaska Highway. The construction zone was brutal and you needed to be guided through by a Pilot Car that went about 10mph. Miles and miles of gravel, rock, dirt. mud sand, dips, potholes, dust, etc. Only thing that could have been worse would have been if it were raining. We rode through this ever since we left Whitehorse - most of the afternoon.
There was an alternate route by taking the "Top of the World Highway" but some riders we ran into said the conditions there were worse. So we had a choice between bad and worse. We chose bad. Turned out to be bad too. Fortunately we made it through a little muddy and a little dusty. At some points it was like riding a mechanical bull/ We both held on through it all. Not something we are looking forward to on the return through the YT.
Saw some wildlife today. A Moose an Elk some squirrels playing frogger on the highway. No hits, they were too fast.
Had lunch at a campground called Buckshot Betty's and headed west.
Get to the last gas before the border and it was just about $7.00 per gallon, so we decided to head for the gas 5 miles past the border that a truck driver told us about. He said they had gas, rooms, and a restaurant at a place called Border City. Turns out the place is a small campground you have to pay attention to or it's gone. Instead of being 5 miles past the border, it was just over the border. Instead of being Border City, that's the name of the place. Gas, restaurant and a room. Not anyplace you'd want to eat or stay, so not thinking much of it, he continued to find Border City. 5 miles, 10 miles, no Border City. We stopped at a pull off where there was an RV broken down from a punctured radiator that happened on the construction road. Asked about gas and they said you either need t go 11 miles back or 40 miles ahead. A quick check said I wouldn't make either. So, Ed baile me out with a siphon of about a quart and a half - enough to go back 11 miles and all was well. Regular only at $4.00/gal, and we were on our way. Only 91 miles to Tok, AK with nothing in between.
Got here around 8:30PM - crossed another time zone when we crossed the border and found a room.
Unpacked, washed up, and got some refreshments. An hour later, I was out.
Have pics and hope to get them up when we get to Fairbanks. Headed there today, Circle tomorrow, and Anchorage Wednesday.
Tally - 536 miles today. 3rd time zone crossing, 2nd border crossing, 11th state, and 3 Canadian Provinces. Big red passed 30K miles today. Time for service. Probably in Anchorage.
We first stopped for breakfast in Johnson's Crossing, a place where the American Army established a camp during WWII while building the highway. Temps were favorable and sunshine all the way.
Next stop was for gas in Whitehorse, capitol of the YT. Sunday morning, so not much action in the town. Plenty of motorcycles around as there was a Harley rally in Fairbanks this weekend.
Today was the longest riding day and the most mileage in one day. Partly because of all of the construction on the Alaska Highway. The construction zone was brutal and you needed to be guided through by a Pilot Car that went about 10mph. Miles and miles of gravel, rock, dirt. mud sand, dips, potholes, dust, etc. Only thing that could have been worse would have been if it were raining. We rode through this ever since we left Whitehorse - most of the afternoon.
There was an alternate route by taking the "Top of the World Highway" but some riders we ran into said the conditions there were worse. So we had a choice between bad and worse. We chose bad. Turned out to be bad too. Fortunately we made it through a little muddy and a little dusty. At some points it was like riding a mechanical bull/ We both held on through it all. Not something we are looking forward to on the return through the YT.
Saw some wildlife today. A Moose an Elk some squirrels playing frogger on the highway. No hits, they were too fast.
Had lunch at a campground called Buckshot Betty's and headed west.
Got here around 8:30PM - crossed another time zone when we crossed the border and found a room.
Unpacked, washed up, and got some refreshments. An hour later, I was out.
Have pics and hope to get them up when we get to Fairbanks. Headed there today, Circle tomorrow, and Anchorage Wednesday.
Tally - 536 miles today. 3rd time zone crossing, 2nd border crossing, 11th state, and 3 Canadian Provinces. Big red passed 30K miles today. Time for service. Probably in Anchorage.
Sunday, June 14, 2015
Mountain Soup, Rams, Toothpic Mountain, Rocky Road, Signs, Moose and Klondike - Day 17
We got off to another early start today and had a nice breakfast at the Ramada in Fort Nelson, left before 8. Skies were predictable as it was raining when we left with a temp of 12C (about 52F), so the day could only get better, or so we thought.
Not too far out of town we started to climb in elevation. Nothing but angry gray skies and low cloud cover. Before we knew it, we were in the soup - mountain soup that is. Climbing up over 1/2 mile we hit fog. Fog so thick you could cut it with a knife. Ed and I were only about 30 feet apart and that's all I saw. Everything else was cloaked in a mountain mist. Thankfully, it was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic either way.
By now, the temp dropped to 40F. In addition to the fog, we were passing through winding roads with rock cliff walls lining the way. All along the route were warning signs of falling rocks. And they mean it. There wasn't nary a turn we went around where there wasn't some debris on the road. BC even has road rangers that ride the highway clearing the road of the rock debris. Some of the stones were quite large looked like they weighed 50-100 lbs. Most were smaller and not a problem navigating around.
We finally came upon some of the mountains we saw far in the distance from Fort Nelson that resembled the Great Pyramids of Giza rising up out of the landscape. They looked even better up close.
After riding through the rain and cold for about 2 hours, we came across a roadside stop called Toad River. Campground, gas, restaurant, gift shop. Place was pretty unique as it had hundreds, if not a thousand or more baseball style hats from all kinds of businesses form all over the world stapled to the ceiling and walls. I've never seen anything like it before. Truly a sight to see.
After warming up, we headed out. On the way just passed Toad River, as I was coming around a turn, the engine noise of Big Red warned and startled 2 Rams - you know, like the kind used for those Dodge Truck commercials. The were just about off the road and into the woods by the time I came upon them.
Signs for Moose, Wood Buffalo, Bison, and Bear lined the highway. Not too far along and we came across 2 separate herds of Buffalo and some lone Bison. I even got to see a Moose standing at a pond on the side of the road. A black bear crossed the road right in front of Ed.
At one point we passed a mountain with what looked like bare tree poles sticking up like toothpicks. No other vegetation at all. Looked weird.
We certainly saw our share of BC wildlife today as well as spectacular scenery. Snow covered mountains, pristine aquamarine colored rivers, streams and lakes. Nice winding roads. Only thing that could have enhanced it was if the sun was shining. Not too much longer and we got our wish. The temp eventually climbed to 65F. Felt good, but didn't last long. We got to Watson Lake and saw the Famous Sign Park. Thousands of "borrowed" signs from many municipalities around the world. Some as far as Bejing and Australia. Amazing. Had lunch and 2 1/2 hours from our destination for the night - Teslin in the Yukon Territory. On the way, the Alaska highway weaves itself through the BC and YT borders several times, so for a while, we were gaining and losing time several times within 100 miles. One thing we didn't know about the Yukon, is that we crossed another time zone. Now on Pacific Time.
We also passed an official marker on the road before we got to Teslin that had no signs describing what it was, but it had to be the marker designation the point of the Continental Divide.
When we got to the hotel, we met 2 other riders from Miami, Florida. Retired Firemen. They had already been to Fairbanks and were headed home.
Another Time Zone, another Canadian Provence, another few mountain ranges, 495 miles today. Getting closer to the Alaska border, maybe tomorrow, maybe Monday. Passing through Whitehorse, YT tomorrow. Last big outpost before Alaska.
Not too far out of town we started to climb in elevation. Nothing but angry gray skies and low cloud cover. Before we knew it, we were in the soup - mountain soup that is. Climbing up over 1/2 mile we hit fog. Fog so thick you could cut it with a knife. Ed and I were only about 30 feet apart and that's all I saw. Everything else was cloaked in a mountain mist. Thankfully, it was early Saturday morning and there wasn't much traffic either way.
By now, the temp dropped to 40F. In addition to the fog, we were passing through winding roads with rock cliff walls lining the way. All along the route were warning signs of falling rocks. And they mean it. There wasn't nary a turn we went around where there wasn't some debris on the road. BC even has road rangers that ride the highway clearing the road of the rock debris. Some of the stones were quite large looked like they weighed 50-100 lbs. Most were smaller and not a problem navigating around.
We finally came upon some of the mountains we saw far in the distance from Fort Nelson that resembled the Great Pyramids of Giza rising up out of the landscape. They looked even better up close.
After riding through the rain and cold for about 2 hours, we came across a roadside stop called Toad River. Campground, gas, restaurant, gift shop. Place was pretty unique as it had hundreds, if not a thousand or more baseball style hats from all kinds of businesses form all over the world stapled to the ceiling and walls. I've never seen anything like it before. Truly a sight to see.
Too bad my bike can't claim the same!
After warming up, we headed out. On the way just passed Toad River, as I was coming around a turn, the engine noise of Big Red warned and startled 2 Rams - you know, like the kind used for those Dodge Truck commercials. The were just about off the road and into the woods by the time I came upon them.
Signs for Moose, Wood Buffalo, Bison, and Bear lined the highway. Not too far along and we came across 2 separate herds of Buffalo and some lone Bison. I even got to see a Moose standing at a pond on the side of the road. A black bear crossed the road right in front of Ed.
At one point we passed a mountain with what looked like bare tree poles sticking up like toothpicks. No other vegetation at all. Looked weird.
We certainly saw our share of BC wildlife today as well as spectacular scenery. Snow covered mountains, pristine aquamarine colored rivers, streams and lakes. Nice winding roads. Only thing that could have enhanced it was if the sun was shining. Not too much longer and we got our wish. The temp eventually climbed to 65F. Felt good, but didn't last long. We got to Watson Lake and saw the Famous Sign Park. Thousands of "borrowed" signs from many municipalities around the world. Some as far as Bejing and Australia. Amazing. Had lunch and 2 1/2 hours from our destination for the night - Teslin in the Yukon Territory. On the way, the Alaska highway weaves itself through the BC and YT borders several times, so for a while, we were gaining and losing time several times within 100 miles. One thing we didn't know about the Yukon, is that we crossed another time zone. Now on Pacific Time.
We also passed an official marker on the road before we got to Teslin that had no signs describing what it was, but it had to be the marker designation the point of the Continental Divide.
When we got to the hotel, we met 2 other riders from Miami, Florida. Retired Firemen. They had already been to Fairbanks and were headed home.
Another Time Zone, another Canadian Provence, another few mountain ranges, 495 miles today. Getting closer to the Alaska border, maybe tomorrow, maybe Monday. Passing through Whitehorse, YT tomorrow. Last big outpost before Alaska.
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