Thursday, July 2, 2015

Ocean Beach, Balboa Park, Hodads, Farmer's Market, Fireworks - day 34

Woke up in beautiful Ocean Beach, California. Went downtown to breakfast and headed to the beach for a short walk, Then off to Balboa Park, home of the world's largest outdoor pipe organ. They have free concerts every night! The park is enormous housing science buildings, an IMax theater, a Japanese tea garden, botanical gardens, a playhouse and a host of other buildings. The architecture is in the old Spanish style with ornate artwork built into the building facades.

We spent part of the afternoon walking around and admiring the enormity and beauty of the park, we headed to downtown OB for some Hodad's Burgers. A burger joint made famous by Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.

A walk through the farmer's market, then home.

The Sea World fireworks went off just after 9PM and we watched from the upstairs balcony. Nice treat after a day in OB.

Watched a movie and zonked out.

The Long Hot Ride, LA - We Love It - Mariscos Linda, Red Snapper, Kasey- Day 33

When we got up and packed we knew it was going to be a hot one. The temp started out at 94F then rose throughout the day as we rode US 5 through California. The mountains and hillsides were burnt and brown due to the heat and lack of rain or irrigation. As we rode through the state the temps definitely increased - all the way up to 113F by mid afternoon.

As we frequently stopped at rest areas and gas stations to hydrate and wet out helmets, gloves and neck scarves - the only brief relief we had from the heat.

As we were going through LA in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic for about a 1/2 hour, Ed's bike overheated. His instruments lit up like a Christmas Tree, so we pulled over at the first exit. Luck would have it that we found ourselves in East LA. We parked the bikes on a residential street lined with homes with bars on the door and windows. Two big Latino guys were sitting on the porch across the street probably wondering what these 2 Gringos were doing in this part of the hood. Well, since we really couldn't go anywhere, we figured we'd try to get something to eat and hope that the traffic and the engine temperature subsided by the time we were done.

Ed checks the GPS and sees a McD's, BK and some other fast food places nearby. Not really wanting fast food, I asked a UPS driver making a delivery across the street if there was someplace nearby to grab some dinner. He recommended a place around the corner named Mariscos Linda. Not knowing any better , and looking to find a better location to hole up, we moved on down the block and around the cornet to he restaurant. Well, tonight was just full of surprises. We park on the main road in front oof the place, and not really sure if it's open or not, I try the side red vinyl covered door and walk right into a dark bar. As my eyes adjust to the darkness, I see guys sitting around the bar and at small round tables in cowboy hats, a Mariachi band playing - what else - Mariachi music, talk in Spanish and laughter all abound - until I walk into the bar that is. Then I felt all got quiet and all eyes were on the Gringo. Where's Ed? I look behind me and see the door opening nad Ed entering. Make sure he sees me and we go through swinging saloon doors into a brightly lit restaurant dining room. There are only 2 tables in there with patrons. The décor was  - what else - genuinely Mexican with bright colors and Mexican decorations.

We took a table and the waitress came over with menus and asked what we want to drink - Cervezas, of course - Dos Equis obviously. She comes back with the beers. After what we've been through today, they hit the spot. Ahhhhh.....  I look over the menu -  it's in Spanish but has photos of the meals - kind of like Chinese take out.  I order the Whole Red Snapper dinner. It came with a salad, potato wedges, rice and a roll or tortillas. Ed orders the same. The dinner comes out and it looks just like the picture on the menu. And it was delicious. We made fish tacos and enjoyed every bite. 

After dinner, we headed out on the last leg of our journey tonight - to San Diego. Only 2 hours away, we made it in 1 hour 40. We were guided to Kasey;s apartment with her trying to read a map over the phone - too a detour - got back on point and made it there safe and sound.

She greeted us at the curb and it was so great to see her after more than a year. She looks great!

Spent some time talking and finally conked out around 11PM.

Logged 580 miles today, 10,400 since I began. Long day, long ride, sweltering heat. But all is good!

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Gold Beach, Shipwreck, SeaFog, PCH, Cold, Hot, Redwoods, The Twisties, Williams - Day 32

We got up to a temp of 51F and had breakfast at XXX about a 1/2 mile from the hotel. After breakfast, a few pics of the Patterson Bridge - you can see the similarities, and then a run down the Oregon Coast.

At the start of the trip we passed through the small seaside town of Gold Beach and saw the remnants of a ship that obviously went aground and remains where it grounded for eternity. The weathering actually looks kind of cool as it sits right there at the shoreline.

Riding down the coast is a very interesting ride going through the many seaside and vacation towns each with its own character and architectures. As we ride, you can see the sea fog rolling inland covering the hilltops and the rock appendages along the shore. Sometimes it gives everything kind of an eerie look and you could almost see ghostlike apparitions floating among the fog. You could imagine sea and shore life as it may have looked a century or two ago.

As we continued riding down the coastline, we were continually accompanied by the fog and the temps remained in the 50's.

Eventually we crossed onto California with a greeting at the Agriculture checkpoint and made our way through the Redwood Forest surrounded by trees taller and wider than can be seen anywhere else in the World. The ride remained damp and cool and we didn't know how good we had it. It got so cool that I needed to put my riding liner on and change to my waterproof warm gloved about halfway through the Redwood ride.

That wasn't to last too long as we headed East for Highway 5 that's the major North/South route through the state. Little did we know hat had awaited us and little did we know what we were in store for. We took an exit for Rte 299 that cuts from Rte 101 on the coast to US 5 in the central part of the state. The road cut across a range of mountains that turned out to be an endurance run. 200 miles of the twistiest, turniest, winding roads through the barren forests with temps rising all the way. About 1/2 way through it was time to shed the jacket and the liner and change gloves.

I had to stop for a quick rest as the shoulders, neck and back got quite a workout. Time to apply sunscreen and ride in short sleeves and riding pants. It was a small relief as the sun and heat from the mountains were unforgiving. Before long, the temp had risen to 108.5F. That's an increase of 57.5 degrees in the span of just a few hours.

We made our way to Williams, CA and settled in for the night. We were pretty lucky as there was a good restaurant in town and after a cold beverage and a lasagna dinner, we were ready to hit the hay. Slept like a rock and didn't hear a thing until morning. Well earned and needed good night's rest.


Monday, June 29, 2015

Highway 101, Pacific Ocean, Arched Bridges, A Buck, A Turkey, No Vacancy - Day 31

For some reason, we both slept in late today. Ed was up at 8:30 and I couldn't believe the time ( he's usually up and moving around 6AM - but not today!). Looks like all the miles and long days are catching up with us. 30 days on the road and we're feeling it.

The beds were comfy and pillows soft and we just were soaking in the quiet 4th floor room - no one above walking around at all hours of the night. The A/C was quiet too. Nice accommodations at the LaQuinta Inn.

We went for breakfast at a diner across the street from the motel. When we left, the temp was 69 degrees F and when we came out about a 1/2 hour later 77. Was this a taste of what was to come for the rest of the day? Hope not.

Well, the theory of the rising temps turned out to be an incorrect assumption. We went up to the room to get our luggage and load it on the bikes and when we came back down, overcast and raindrops. Oh, well, get out the raingear and get ready for a wet ride.

No longer did we get underway did the rain stop, but not for long either. We headed south on I-5 toward Portland until we could tale a highway west to the coast and Rte 101 ( Oregon's scenic Pacific Byway). And what an awesome ride it was. Winding roads, hills, mountains, canopied forests, beautiful ocean views, arched bridges, and dropping temps all the way. Temp got down to 57F. Before then, it was time to shed the rain jacket for my riding jacket - waterproof too, but provides much better heat and wind resistance. That and a change of gloves did the trick.

We worked our way down the coast stopping periodically taking pics and admiring the bridges along the way. It seems that Oregon's Coastal Bridges were designed and built by the same man just after WWI - Conde B. McCullough. It may not seem like much, but this man did an aesthetic and engineering feat that looks great and provides protection from the salt spray and fog. Almost 100 years and these bridges still look like artwork. Their majestic arches supporting vehicles sometimes 1,000 feet or more above gorges and rivers throughout the coast. And, they all  have similar looking features and you can definitely see the resemblance.










We stopped at a scenic view and looked down upon the famous Devil's Punch Bowl in Newport, Oregon- a natural rock formation allowing water from the ocean to pass through a hole in the rock through an arch and fill a "Bowl" with water. It looked great - nature makes the most incredible sights.


Further down the road we stopped in a town named Florence, OR. It's a seaside town along the ocean and after riding through the main street of activity, we stopped and asked some locals where we can find a good Bowl of chowder. The guy looked like an old biker and told us to go down the ramp leading to the docks and go the hut with he crab flags. It's the best you'll find around these parts, he said. It was just sold to a woman and the guy who previously owned it apparently gave his chowder recipe to the new owner. We get there and she ahs plenty of crabs, but no chowder. It's only the 2nd day she's opened. So, on to the strip of restaurants and we stop at Mo's. It's pretty much a tourist place like the ones at Fisherman's Warf in San Francisco and had a bowl of Clam Chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. It tasted like canned clam chowder and probably was.

 Ok, snack time is over and we're burning daylight. It's 5PM and we still need to log some miles and find a place for the night. As we head south on the 101 the scenery gets scarce, few towns and less signs of civilization - not a good sign. We had our goals set on a town named Port Orford - about 2 hours south. We get there and not much to look at - things are not looking up. Up ahead before a turn at the end of town there are 2 arrows pointing up the hill and the words Ocean View painted in the road. There was also a sign for a motel, so we go up the hill. Sitting right in front of us is a nice looking motel wright on the ocean - looking good, until we get a little closer to the office that is. As I approach the office a Buck jumps out right in front of me and hops down past the office. The No Vacancy sign in the office put a damper in our spirits. There must be other motels in town you would think. And there were, except, buy the looks of the outsides of these places  I wouldn't board my dog there - so - we do the familiar search maneuver. Next town, 38 miles. On the way Ed passes a wild turkey on the side of the road, but when I get close it decides to do a turkey trot to the middle of the road and just as Big Red is about to score #2 emblem for the gas tank, it changes direction at the last minute and gets to live another day. What the heck is it with these birds and suicide wishes anyway?

On our way there we cross abridge at about 30 miles and see a sign for a Motel 6 with a nice view of the bridge and the water. Do they have a room? Up a steep hill and a 180 degree turn, then another hill and there's the office. No signs saying no vacancy, so we go in the office and ask the dreaded question. And, yes, there is room at the inn. Saved again. It's 8PM and we're glad to find a clean room and settle in for the night.


Sunday, June 28, 2015

Seattle, Beamers, Harleys, Salmon Creek, WA - Day 30

Today was a day to take care of business. Went with Ed to the BMW dealer and his front wheel was waiting for him, though it would take a while to get it installed. Since he'd be there a while, I thought it would be a good idea to get the oils and filter changed on Big Red, so while Ed's work was getting done, I could take care of Big Red at the same time.

Went to the Harley Dealer in Downtown Seattle only to find a clothing store, so I called and was given directions to the dealer in Belleview. After a 45 minute ride and several missed turns - I mean detours I finally arrive at the google map location for the dealership - except, no sign of the dealer in sight! So, once again I call and ask where the secret porthole is located. I tell the voice on the other end of the phone where I'm at and she says "that's the old location of the dealership - you're not the first one to tell me that". Google never updated their maps. So she gives me directions and I'm there in 5 minutes. Thankfully they can squeeze me in - not just for an oil change, but it seems my rear tire needs to be replaced too - so I ask "Can you do that too?" After a brief check with the day's workload I get the nod. Only that it may take most of the day. And it did. Got Big Red back on the road about 3:30PM. Ed met me there about 2PM and waited patiently.

Finally, onward south toward Portland, Oregon. Glad to get out of Seattle. Roads are crazy, but after riding around most of them this morning, came to understand why people like living here. The city is surrounded by water and there are snow-covered mountains all around. Nice views everywhere.

We stopped in Salmon Creek, WA (near the Washington/Oregon border)around 7PM and tried to find a room, but once again, there's a soccer tournament, a lacrosse tournament, a knitting knit-off, a ........... Everyone is booked we were told. I asked "where's your guest computer, get on trip advisor and book a room less than 1/4 mile away within minutes. Whew! Guess we haven't learned this skill yet.

Dinner at the local RoadHouse and done for the day.

Almost 9900 miles since the start - 9400+ from Key West. Don't know how many miles to go.

Off to points South tomorrow and maybe get to stop for a snack at VooDoo Donuts in Portland.

We'll be in California some time tomorrow before we stop. It was 93 degrees here after 8PM today. Hot day to ride. Hot again tomorrow.

Vancouver, BC, run for the Border, Seattle - Day 29

The day began with a breakfast at a place named Rollys - just around the corner from the hotel - and heading south for home. The ride from Hope, BC to Vancouver, BC was uneventful but leading all the way to the southernmost and westernmost city in Canada. We arrived at the Ferry Terminal along the waterfront and found a place with a view of the Bay and snow-capped mountains as a backdrop. Just picturesque with a 5,000lb boat prop in the foreground.









After a quick snack, back on the road to the good old USA. We crossed at the Peace Bridge crossing after a 30-40 minute wait, answered a few questions and heard have a nice day! Welcome Home!






After leaving the border crossing we still had a 2-hour ride to Seattle. Since we had made reservations the night before, we had a room waiting for us.

Went to the waterfront for dinner with a view of the bay in Edmond's Washington - about 15 minutes away from the hotel. Great food and views of the Edmonds-Kingston Ferry and mountains as a backdrop. It just don't get better than this!






Ed has an appointment in the AM to get the new wheel installed and his oil changed.


Friday, June 26, 2015

Train Whistles, The Canyon, Hells' Gate, Wildfires and Hope - Day 28

Last night was by far the most sleepless nights I've had on the trip. On the way into town, there was lots of industrial businesses - logging, sawmills, wood chips all loaded on train cars. It should have been a warning of what was yet to come. Kind of puzzling that there would be miles of train cars all hooked up with no where to go - or so I thought. Apparently, this is the busiest rail corridor in North America with 1 Million rail cars a month passing through. Who knew?

Once again, visions of the My Cousin Vinny movie when all of a sudden after 1AM there's a rumble, things begin to shake, and then the train whistles start. Not going to be a good night. Needless to say I got about 1-2 hours sleep. Woke up tired sleepy and began the day.

We headed out of Vanderhoof with Hope, BC as a goal. It's near the border - perfect position for a border crossing on Friday through Vancouver and into Seattle.

Once we left Iskut, road traffic picked up and the road conditions improved significantly. Vanderhoof is a busy town. Al the conveniences you could want and looks like plenty of employment - during summer months at least. On the road to Vanderhoof, we passed many lakes region vacation towns all by lakes and all looked busy. Plenty of farms and ranches as well. A big change from the past few weeks of riding  both headed north and as we head east and south, before we head west and south. Not such a big selection of roads and routes up here.

The highlight of the trip today was the Fraser Canyon. The mountains in the canyon aren't steep and all rock, they're dirt and gradually slope. Reminded me of the Diablo Canyon northeast of San Francisco. Very similar with one difference - the Fraser river. The river is long and wide and runs swiftly for the whole length we rode it. Our ride took us south on RTE 1 along the mountain slopes and cliffs edges most of the afternoon and almost all the way to Hope.

There are several tunnels through the mountains for cars and trucks and on the opposite side of the river you can see railroad cutouts in the mountains for the railroad to pass as well. The scenery is just beautiful and the trains are probably as long as allowed and look to be at least a mile long. The train kept pace with my bike at 40mph.

At one point the river narrows at a choke point called Hells Gate. There's a tram that takes you across for free, but wasn't running when I passed.

Another site along the mountains as we got farther south, were not just that the snow-capped peaks re-appeared, but there were several burning wildfires visible from the road. A helicopter flew overhead probably to assess the danger as it wasn't equipped to carry or drop water.

Landed in Hope around 8PM MT and after a quick shower and blog entry, hit the hay.

Over 9,000 miles total so far. I'll try to get some pics and stats up after we hit the states again and have better internet service and better computers.

Until then...........